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Jacket

  • Place of origin:

    England (made)

  • Date:

    1605-1620 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Linen striped with silk and silver strip, linen, linen thread, silk ribbon, silver thread-covered buttons

  • Museum number:

    188-1900

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Object Type
This is a rare example of an informal woman's jacket from the early 17th century. It would have been worn over a petticoat and stays, with a linen or lace collar and cuffs and a decorative coif.

Materials & Making
Unlike most surviving early 17th-century jackets, the decoration of this one is unusually simple. The linen has been left unadorned, but for the very fine piping of the seams. An additional weft of silver thread in the weave of the fabric is the only touch of luxury. The jacket is hand-sewn and lined with plain linen, with padding in the shoulder wings. The full, loose cut, achieved by piecing the narrow fabric, was an alternative style to the fitted shape of waistcoats worn during this period.

Time
The date of the object can be detected through the cut of the garment. The tight curving sleeves are typical of the period 1605-1620. At the back, a small semi-circular collar is pierced with two holes to hold in place the starched lace or plain linen ruff popular at this time.

Physical description

A loose jacket of linen, striped with white silk and silver strip. The jacket has a circular collar and cuffs, long, close-fitting sleeves and shoulder wings. The sleeve and shoulderwing seams are piped with the striped linen, cut on the diagonal. The jacket is lined with linen and open at the front; one of the original silk ribbons used to fasten it remains at the neck.

Place of Origin

England (made)

Date

1605-1620 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Linen striped with silk and silver strip, linen, linen thread, silk ribbon, silver thread-covered buttons

Dimensions

Length: 66 cm, Width: 134.6 cm including sleeves

Object history note

Part of the Isham collection purchased in 1899.

Descriptive line

A woman's jacket, English, 1605-20, linen striped with silver strip and silk thread

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Hart, Avril and Susan North, Historical Fashion in Detail: The 17th and 18th Centuries, London: V&A, 1998, pp.22-23
Braun, Melanie, 'Striped Linen Jacket', in North, Susan and Jenny Tiramani, eds, Seventeenth-Century Women’s Dress Patterns, vol.2, London: V&A Publishing, 2012, pp.34-47

Labels and date

British Galleries:
This style of woman's informal jacket was not meant to be worn in public. For this reason such garments are never seen in portraits. Its loose-fitting cut would have been particularly comfortable and the jacket may have been worn during pregnancy. [27/03/2003]

Materials

Linen; Floss silk; Linen thread; Silver strip; Silver thread

Techniques

Weaving; Hand sewing

Categories

Clothing; Textiles; Europeana Fashion Project

Production Type

Unique

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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