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Not currently on display at the V&A

Jacket

1605-1620 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

Object Type
This is a rare example of an informal woman's jacket from the early 17th century. It would have been worn over a petticoat and stays, with a linen or lace collar and cuffs and a decorative coif.

Materials & Making
Unlike most surviving early 17th-century jackets, the decoration of this one is unusually simple. The linen has been left unadorned, but for the very fine piping of the seams. An additional weft of silver thread in the weave of the fabric is the only touch of luxury. The jacket is hand-sewn and lined with plain linen, with padding in the shoulder wings. The full, loose cut, achieved by piecing the narrow fabric, was an alternative style to the fitted shape of waistcoats worn during this period.

Time
The date of the object can be detected through the cut of the garment. The tight curving sleeves are typical of the period 1605-1620. At the back, a small semi-circular collar is pierced with two holes to hold in place the starched lace or plain linen ruff popular at this time.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Materials and Techniques
Linen striped with silk and silver strip, linen, linen thread, silk ribbon, silver thread-covered buttons
Brief Description
A woman's jacket, English, 1605-20, linen striped with silver strip and silk thread
Physical Description
A loose jacket of linen, striped with white silk and silver strip. The jacket has a circular collar and cuffs, long, close-fitting sleeves and shoulder wings. The sleeve and shoulderwing seams are piped with the striped linen, cut on the diagonal. The jacket is lined with linen and open at the front; one of the original silk ribbons used to fasten it remains at the neck.
Dimensions
  • Length: 66cm
  • Including sleeves width: 134.6cm
Dimensions checked: Measured; 16/11/2000 by NH mounted display dims measured 16/11/2000 as close as possible to actual display
Production typeUnique
Gallery Label
British Galleries: This style of woman's informal jacket was not meant to be worn in public. For this reason such garments are never seen in portraits. Its loose-fitting cut would have been particularly comfortable and the jacket may have been worn during pregnancy.(27/03/2003)
Object history
Part of the Isham collection purchased in 1899.
Summary
Object Type
This is a rare example of an informal woman's jacket from the early 17th century. It would have been worn over a petticoat and stays, with a linen or lace collar and cuffs and a decorative coif.

Materials & Making
Unlike most surviving early 17th-century jackets, the decoration of this one is unusually simple. The linen has been left unadorned, but for the very fine piping of the seams. An additional weft of silver thread in the weave of the fabric is the only touch of luxury. The jacket is hand-sewn and lined with plain linen, with padding in the shoulder wings. The full, loose cut, achieved by piecing the narrow fabric, was an alternative style to the fitted shape of waistcoats worn during this period.

Time
The date of the object can be detected through the cut of the garment. The tight curving sleeves are typical of the period 1605-1620. At the back, a small semi-circular collar is pierced with two holes to hold in place the starched lace or plain linen ruff popular at this time.
Bibliographic References
  • Hart, Avril and Susan North, Historical Fashion in Detail: The 17th and 18th Centuries, London: V&A, 1998, pp.22-23
  • Braun, Melanie, 'Striped Linen Jacket', in North, Susan and Jenny Tiramani, eds, Seventeenth-Century Women’s Dress Patterns, vol.2, London: V&A Publishing, 2012, pp.34-47
Collection
Accession Number
188-1900

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record createdMarch 27, 2003
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