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Not currently on display at the V&A

Theatre Costume

1971 (Made)
Artist/Maker

This exquisite costume was designed by Julia Trevelyan Oman for a member of the chorus in Act III scene 1 of Tchaikovsky's opera Eugene Onegin, performed by the Royal Opera in 1971.
The costume is a superb example of both design and making. Julia Trevelyan Oman was famed for her meticulous research and attention to detail in her period costumes. Many of the details would never be seen from the audience, but Oman believed that they would help the performers 'feel' the correct period and style.
The dress is a recreation of the fashions of the 1920s, with high, Empire-line waist and straight skirt. Costumes of this period were usually light-weight, but this dress is in satin, with wonderfully made rose trims. These give the costume, and hence the wearer, weight and dignity suited to the fashionable society world depicted in Act III of the opera.
The costume was made by the firm Bonn and Mackenzie, who were among the finest costume makers of their generation, famous for their attention to detail and creating believable 'clothes' for the performers. Their costumes were a counter to anyone who thought that theatrical costumes were crude and tacky.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Damask shot with iridiscent threads, satin, net, lace, cotton
Brief description
Costume for a member of the chorus in Act III scene 1 of Tchaikovsky's opera Eugene Onegin, designed by Julia Trevelyan Oman, Royal Opera, 1971.
Physical description
Empire line dress with low neck and puffed short sleeves in ivory damask shot with iridiscent threads, overlaid with fine net. From the high waist, the skirt is overlaid with graduated narrow pink panels in textured satin edged with narrow bands of matching pink satin; each panel end in a rose of dark pink fabric shot with iridescent multicoloured threads; above each rose are painted wired fabric leaves and below four pink satin loops. Around the hem is a zig zag swag of similar roses, foliage and single loops. Around the hem are two padded bands of the pink satin. The cotton underskirt is trimmed with net and lace which extend beyond the overskirt hem. The bodice is overlaid with similar vertical bands with, across the front, similar horizontal bands. The neck is trimmed with ecru lace. The short sleeves are ruched and covered with the fine net, and edged with bands of the pink satin. Around the high waist is a fitted sash of the pink satin. The costume is laced down the back. The bodice is lined with cotton.
Dimensions
  • Dress, collar to hem length: 139cm
  • Dress, shoulder width width: 44cm
  • Packed weight of object weight: 2kg
Marks and inscriptions
  • "(printed) ROYAL OPERA HOUSE / PRODUCTION: (handwritten) EUGENE ONEGIN / (printed) ACT: (handwritten) III (printed) SCENE: / Character / Name (handwritten) SMALEST TROMEN (crossed out) / [illegible crossed out] / (printed) COVENT GARDEN" (Label; Back neck left side)
  • "(printed) Bonn & Mackenzie LTD / TELEPHONE - 01-836-1393 / (handwritten) WATTS (crossed out) / ACT III / "EUGENE ONEGIN"" (Label; Back neck left side)
  • "(handwritten) MARIANO" (Label; Back neck left side; Ink)
Credit line
Purchased from the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden
Object history
The costume was designed by Julia Trevelyan Oman for a member of the chorus in Act III scene 1 of Tchaikovsky's opera Eugene Onegin, for the Royal Opera in 1971. It was worn in subsequent revivals by various singers.

Historical significance: A superb example of both design and costume making. Julia Trevelyan Oman was famed for her meticulous research and attention to detail in her period costumes. Bonn and Mackenzie were among the finest costume makers of their generation.
Summary
This exquisite costume was designed by Julia Trevelyan Oman for a member of the chorus in Act III scene 1 of Tchaikovsky's opera Eugene Onegin, performed by the Royal Opera in 1971.
The costume is a superb example of both design and making. Julia Trevelyan Oman was famed for her meticulous research and attention to detail in her period costumes. Many of the details would never be seen from the audience, but Oman believed that they would help the performers 'feel' the correct period and style.
The dress is a recreation of the fashions of the 1920s, with high, Empire-line waist and straight skirt. Costumes of this period were usually light-weight, but this dress is in satin, with wonderfully made rose trims. These give the costume, and hence the wearer, weight and dignity suited to the fashionable society world depicted in Act III of the opera.
The costume was made by the firm Bonn and Mackenzie, who were among the finest costume makers of their generation, famous for their attention to detail and creating believable 'clothes' for the performers. Their costumes were a counter to anyone who thought that theatrical costumes were crude and tacky.
Collection
Accession number
S.2-2003

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Record createdMarch 12, 2003
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