Bracelet thumbnail 1
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Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Bracelet

ca. 1860 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

The bracelet was perhaps made by Crouzet, who worked for all the major Parisian goldsmiths, producing jewellery of fine quality and original design. He is known to have produced pieces in the Moroccan taste.

By the 1860s, as European commercial jewellery lost its appeal in artistic circles, jewellery from the Middle East and India became an important influence. In London, the Art Journal encouraged an appreciation of jewellery from countries such as Syria and Palestine. In Paris, jewellery made in the Moroccan style reflected the French engagement with North Africa.

This bracelet is a piece of mourning jewellery. It is hung with five small lockets, each of which opens to allow the owner to insert a photograph or lock of hair. Black enamelled jewellery was fashionable for mourning wear. This piece carries a diamond cross, anchor and heart, which symbolise the Christian virtues of Faith, Hope and Love. They suggest that this bracelet was probably intended for the later stages of mourning.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Materials and Techniques
Gold, enamelled in black, and set with brilliant-cut diamonds and pearls
Dimensions
  • Diameter: 6.8cm
  • Height: 4.4cm
  • Width: 6.6cm
  • Depth: 6.6cm
Credit line
Cory Bequest
Production
Perhaps made by Parisian jeweller Crouzet in the Morrocan manner.
Subjects depicted
Summary
The bracelet was perhaps made by Crouzet, who worked for all the major Parisian goldsmiths, producing jewellery of fine quality and original design. He is known to have produced pieces in the Moroccan taste.



By the 1860s, as European commercial jewellery lost its appeal in artistic circles, jewellery from the Middle East and India became an important influence. In London, the Art Journal encouraged an appreciation of jewellery from countries such as Syria and Palestine. In Paris, jewellery made in the Moroccan style reflected the French engagement with North Africa.



This bracelet is a piece of mourning jewellery. It is hung with five small lockets, each of which opens to allow the owner to insert a photograph or lock of hair. Black enamelled jewellery was fashionable for mourning wear. This piece carries a diamond cross, anchor and heart, which symbolise the Christian virtues of Faith, Hope and Love. They suggest that this bracelet was probably intended for the later stages of mourning.
Bibliographic Reference
Shirley Bury, Jewellery 1789-1910, The International Era, Vol. II. p.687, colour plate 192
Collection
Accession Number
M.104-1951

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record createdMarch 11, 2003
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