Man's morning coat of cotton velveteen lined with silk, England, 1873-1875

Man's morning coat. Double-breasted, made of blue cotton-velvet reaching to just below the hips. Three buttons to button on one or two only on each front. The revers are broad, each has a button hole. The fronts are cut on a slant so that the front edges are cut away below the second button. There are two flap pockets at the waist seam. The sleeves are wide and taper to the cuffs which have two buttons and button holes. The buttons are all covered in a ribbed black silk.

The back is cut with a centre back and two side seams. There is a centre back vent flanked by two side pleats which are stitched flat at the hem by the black braid which trims the entire coat and pockets and part of the cuffs. Each pleat is finished at the back waist by a button.

Lining of black twilled silk and wool mixture and the sleeves are lined with a white twilled cotton with a design printed in brown. Padded at the sides. Two breast pockets. Pocket bags are lined with brown glazed cotton. The braid and covered buttons are of black ribbed wool. University style.

As the frock coat became formal daywear in the 1850s, a more informal style of coat, called the morning coat was introduced. It had skirts that were cut away in front. This early 1870s morning coat was known as the ‘University’ style. It is characterised by sharply angled cut-away fronts, short length and double-breasted style. The wide collar and lapels are typical of the 1870s, as is the loose sleeve.

T.3-1982