Dresses in the Empire or Josephine style had a high waist-line under the bust. Balenciaga kept faith with this style, which was one of his favourites. The result was a number of outstanding designs, including the 'Amphora' dress shown here. Clever cutting and the use of a crisp silk created the cocoon-like back of the dress. Balenciaga finished the back with an enormous knotted sash. This extravagant feature is typical of his work. From the front the gown is a lean sheath with a strapless neckline. The neckline is slightly padded to stand away from the body.
Physical description
Evening dress of black poult. It is strapless, caught at the back of the full skirt to produce a 'hobble' effect, and draped to bow at the waist level at the back.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1965-1966 (made)
Artist/maker
Cristóbal Balenciaga, born 1895 - died 1972 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Poult
Marks and inscriptions
Balenciaga, 10 Avenue George V, Paris
75027
Historical context note
Gloria Guinness (nee Gloria Rubio y Alatorre, 1912-1980) was an elegant socialite and writer of the mid 20th century.
Her third husband, whom she married in 1951, was Group Capt. Thomas Loel Guinness, a Member of Parliament (died 1989) and an heir to the Guinness beer fortune.
She was voted 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962 behind Jackie Kennedy in first place. (See Time magazine Jan 26 1962)
She owned seven homes, with a full wardrobe in each so that she would never have to pack or wait at customs. She spread her patronage widely, and amongst donations to the V&A of pieces by Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy etc., are pieces by lesser known couturiers such as Chaumont and Lafaurie.
Descriptive line
Evening dress of poult, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1965-1966.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Mendes, Valerie. Black In Fashion. London: V&A Publications, 1999.
Exhibition History
Black in Fashion (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1999-31/12/1999)
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1972-31/12/1972)
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Production Note
Made for the autumn/winter 1965-1966
Categories
Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
