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Evening dress
  • Evening dress
    Heim, Jacques, born 1899 - died 1967
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Evening dress

  • Place of origin:

    Paris (made)

  • Date:

    1959 (designed)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Heim, Jacques, born 1899 - died 1967 (designer)
    Jeunes Filles (retailer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silk organza, with an underdress of silk taffeta and organza, rows of stiffened net and organza frills attached to the back of the underdress, mounted on a boned, cotton net foundation, metal zip and press studs, machine-stitched and hand-finished

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Mrs Rory McEwen

  • Museum number:

    T.266-1974

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

The House of Heim was founded in 1898 to serve an aristocratic clientele. Jacques Heim (1899-1967) began to extend his parents' establishment, which specialized in furs, into a couture house in 1920. He launched 'Heim Jeunes Filles' in 1936 to follow younger tastes in fashion. All Heim's designs had a classical elegance that made them suitable for grand, formal occasions. His business closed in 1969.

Long, sleeveless ball gown made of fuschia silk organza. The full skirt shows intricate pleats. It is shorter at the front than at the back, combining the formal grandeur of the traditional long ball gowns and the fashion for short eveningwear typical of the late 1950s.

This dress forms part of the Cecil Beaton Collection. With great energy and determination Sir Cecil Beaton (1904-1980) contacted designers and the well-dressed elite of Europe and America to create this lasting monument to the art of dress. The collection was exhibited in 1971, accompanied by a catalogue that detailed its enormous range.

Physical description

Evening dress of a double layer of fuchsia silk organza. It is sleeveless, with a scoop neckline. The front panel is cut in the 'Princess' manner, but the sides and back have a waistline seam. The full skirt is calf-length at the front, dipping to the ground at the back and is joined to the waist by large 'petal pleats'.

The dress is attached at points to the strapless underdress of bright pink silk taffeta overlain by bright silk organza. The lines are of 'Princess' at the front, but attatched in horizontal rows to the back, are six stiffened frills of net and silk organza. The dipping back hem is stiffened with nylon net re-inforced with horizontal strips of nylon braid stiffener.

The two dresses are attached to a cotton net foundation support, which is boned and has a brassiere of top stitched silk. A petticoat of eleven layers of bright pink net is attatched to the corset.

Place of Origin

Paris (made)

Date

1959 (designed)

Artist/maker

Heim, Jacques, born 1899 - died 1967 (designer)
Jeunes Filles (retailer)

Materials and Techniques

Silk organza, with an underdress of silk taffeta and organza, rows of stiffened net and organza frills attached to the back of the underdress, mounted on a boned, cotton net foundation, metal zip and press studs, machine-stitched and hand-finished

Object history note

This elegant evening dress was worn by Mrs Rory McEwen and forms part of the Cecil Beaton Collection.With great energy and determination the late Sir Cecil Beaton contacted the well-dressed elite of Europe and America to bring this lasting monument to the art of dress. The collection was exhibited in 1971, accompanied by a catalogue which detailed its enormous range (catalogue 156. Page 32).

Descriptive line

Evening dress of silk organza, designed by JAcques Heim for Jeunes Filles, Paris, 1959.

Materials

Organza; Taffeta

Techniques

Machine sewing

Categories

Fashion; Evening wear; Formal wear; Clothing

Production Type

Haute couture

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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