Portrait of an unknown woman wearing Turkish costume thumbnail 1
Portrait of an unknown woman wearing Turkish costume thumbnail 2
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Portrait Miniatures, Room 90a, The International Music and Art Foundation Gallery

Portrait of an unknown woman wearing Turkish costume

Enamel Miniature
1755 (painted)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Strictly speaking, this enamel is not a miniature. A ‘miniature’ in the 18th century was specifically a painting in watercolour on ivory. The techniques of enamel painting were first perfected in the early 17th century on the Continent by goldsmiths. Enamel is a type of glass coloured by metal oxides and fused to a metal base by firing in a kiln. Each colour has a different melting point, and so must be applied and fired individually. To achieve a work of sophistication, many applications and firings are required, and careful calculations are needed to avoid accidents in the firing process.

Like most early 18th-century English miniaturists, Spencer taught himself the art of painting in watercolour on ivory. As enamels were fashionable at this time, he also learned this complex art, apparently without any lessons. The memoirs of Spencer's fellow miniaturist Samuel Finney describe how clients often ordered a portrait both in miniature (watercolour on ivory) and in enamel. Unlike miniatures at this time, enamels were richly coloured, and they were additionally tough and durable and could be worn without the risk of fading or damage.

This enamel is no longer in its original frame. The costume and pose of this unknown woman are copied from a miniature by Jean Etienne Liotard, who worked in Turkey for many years. At this date in Britain, Turkish dress was popular as masquerade costume, and Liotard's costume can be seen in a number of portraits of different sitters.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitlePortrait of an unknown woman wearing Turkish costume (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Enamel on metal
Brief description
Portrait enamel of an unknown woman in Turkish costume, dated 1755, painted by Gervase Spencer (d. 1763).
Physical description
Portrait of a woman wearing a turban, with a blue and gold tunic over a red and gold bodice. NB. the frame is not original.
Dimensions
  • Height: 48mm
  • Width: 41mm
Style
Credit line
Bequeathed by R. H. Stephenson
Object history
The sitter was identified at time of acquisition as Lady Mary Wortley Montagu (1689-1762) but this attribution is not credible.
Subjects depicted
Summary
Strictly speaking, this enamel is not a miniature. A ‘miniature’ in the 18th century was specifically a painting in watercolour on ivory. The techniques of enamel painting were first perfected in the early 17th century on the Continent by goldsmiths. Enamel is a type of glass coloured by metal oxides and fused to a metal base by firing in a kiln. Each colour has a different melting point, and so must be applied and fired individually. To achieve a work of sophistication, many applications and firings are required, and careful calculations are needed to avoid accidents in the firing process.

Like most early 18th-century English miniaturists, Spencer taught himself the art of painting in watercolour on ivory. As enamels were fashionable at this time, he also learned this complex art, apparently without any lessons. The memoirs of Spencer's fellow miniaturist Samuel Finney describe how clients often ordered a portrait both in miniature (watercolour on ivory) and in enamel. Unlike miniatures at this time, enamels were richly coloured, and they were additionally tough and durable and could be worn without the risk of fading or damage.

This enamel is no longer in its original frame. The costume and pose of this unknown woman are copied from a miniature by Jean Etienne Liotard, who worked in Turkey for many years. At this date in Britain, Turkish dress was popular as masquerade costume, and Liotard's costume can be seen in a number of portraits of different sitters.
Bibliographic reference
Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Engraving, Illustration and Design and Department of Paintings, Accessions 1943, London: HMSO, 1956.
Collection
Accession number
P.4-1943

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Record createdFebruary 25, 2003
Record URL
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