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Necklace and cross
  • Necklace and cross
    A. W. Pugin, born 1812 - died 1852
  • Enlarge image

Necklace and cross

  • Place of origin:

    England (made)

  • Date:

    1843 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    A. W. Pugin, born 1812 - died 1852 (designer)
    John Hardman & Co. (maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Enamelled gold, set with cabochon garnets and pearls

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Mrs C. E. Gladstone

  • Museum number:

    M.21-1962

  • Gallery location:

    British Galleries, Room 122, case 5 []

Object Type
The necklace is composed of 19 enamelled quatrefoils set with garnets. The pendant cross has quatrefoil ends decorated in the same manner as the links of the necklace. In each of the angles between the arms are four small pearls surmounted by a gold fleur-de-lis.

People
The necklace and pendant were made for Louisa Burton, the second wife of the architect A. W. N. Pugin (1812-1852). Pugin's account with John Hardman & Co. of Birmingham contains an entry on 21 December 1843 for 'A Gold enamel Chain & Cross' costing £47. 15s. Louisa died eight months later.

The cross and chain became part of the large parure (set) of jewellery prepared by Pugin for his intended third bride, Helen Lumsdaine. He persuaded Helen to convert to Catholicism, but in 1848, before they could be married, he was parted from her at the insistence of her relatives. Pugin subsequently married a Catholic, Jane Knill, on 10 August 1848. The society gossip Ralph Nevill recalled her as a very pretty woman, her every jewel mounted 'in a Gothic setting'. The set was exhibited in Pugin's Medieval Court at the Great Exhibition of 1851, where it was admired by Queen Victoria.

Materials & Making
Each unit in the chain was stamped out in two parts which were snapped together.

Place of Origin

England (made)

Date

1843 (made)

Artist/maker

A. W. Pugin, born 1812 - died 1852 (designer)
John Hardman & Co. (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Enamelled gold, set with cabochon garnets and pearls

Dimensions

Length: 53.7 cm necklace, Height: 7 cm cross, Width: 4.8 cm cross

Object history note

Designed by A.W.N. Pugin (born in London 1812, died in Ramsgate, Kent, 1852); made by John Hardman & Co., Birmingham

Labels and date

British Galleries:
This is one of the most striking examples of Gothic Revival jewellery, designed by the influential architect A.W.N. Pugin. The shapes which make up the necklace are simple and strong, with rich enamelling and jewels. Pugin designed very few pieces of jewellery but, like all his designs, they are influenced by historical precedents. [27/03/2003]

Categories

Jewellery; Great Exhibition; Christianity; Europeana Fashion Project

Collection

Metalwork Collection

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