Physical description
Short evening dress of tulle stretched over taffeta and mounted on a firmly boned foundation. It has a low necked and adorned bodice, which drops to the hip level at the sides and is tightly fitted to the body by curved seams and long darts. Springing from the lowered waist is a frou-frou skirt of accordion-pleated triple flounces in frail tulle edged with shining satin ribbon. At the sides additional fullness is achieved by tiers of enormous rosettes of pleated tulle interleaved with supporting ruches of nylon. The dress is lined with many layers of net, stiffened with nylon and plastic mesh.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1957 (made)
Artist/maker
Pierre Balmain, born 1914 - died 1982 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Tulle stretched over taffeta, mounted on boned foundation, frail tulle edged with satin ribbon, and lined with net stiffened with nylon and plastic mesh
Descriptive line
Tulle on tafetta evening dress, designed by Pierre Balmain, Paris, 1957.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Vickers, H., 'Cecil Beaton' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, London), p.167
Lady Elizabeth von Hofmannsthal (1916-80) was one of the Paget sisters, a Maid of Honour at the 1937 Coronation, and like her aunt, Lady Diana Cooper, one of the most beautiful women in England in her day. She married Raimund von Hofmannsthal (son of Hugo von Hofmannsthal), with whom many English girls were in love. She gave her yellow Balmain evening dress of 1956,(T.49-1974) and a black Balmain cocktail dress of 1957 (T.50-1974). After her death her son, Octavian, donated a beautiful Cartier make-up case monogrammed with her initials (T.62-2004). It still contains blusher.
Elizabeth von Hofmannsthal, photographed by Cecil Beaton for British Vogue, September 1948 p.72
Lady Elizabeth von Hofmannsthal is well known for her beauty. She loves music, spends a great deal of her time at concerts and theatres. Basis of her smartness is simplicity. Here she wears a "black tulip" crêpe dress by Bianca Mosca.
Mendes, Valerie. Black In Fashion. London: V&A Publications, 1999.
Exhibition History
Black in Fashion (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1999-31/12/1999)
The Little Black Dress (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1983-31/12/1984)
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1972-31/12/1972)
Labels and date
[Cocktail dress case]
Cocktail and Early Evening
Daywear was followed by formal afternoon dresses (robes après-midi habillées), cocktail dresses (robes de cocktail), semi-evening (robes demi-soir) and short evening dresses (robes du soir courtes). These distinctions became simpler as the decade progressed and social codes began to break down.
Cocktail dresses first appeared in the 1920s and gained a new popularity after the war. They were worn at early evening or ‘6 to 8’ gatherings, where guests usually stood and mingled. The gowns could include complex bustles and skirt details, which would be crushed if sat on.
In his book the Little Dictionary of Fashion (1954) Christian Dior described cocktail dresses as ‘elaborate and dressy afternoon frocks’, preferably in black taffeta, satin, chiffon and wool. These confections became the personification of the ‘little black dress’ and were often accessorised with gloves and small hats.
[object label]
Cocktail dress (robe de cocktail)
Pierre Balmain (1914-82)
Paris
1957
Dresses like this achieved their air of weightlessness by floating on a firmly boned foundation. Pleated tulle flounces and rosettes edged with ribbon spring from the lowered waist and preclude sitting down.
Silk taffeta and tulle
Given by Lady Elizabeth von Hofmannsthal
V&A: T.51-1974 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
EVENING DRESS, silk net, taffeta and ribbon.
French, Paris, Pierre Balmain; 1957
Inspired by ballerina's attire this luxurious dress has a sharply contrasting bodice and skirt. The severely plain low-necked bodice drops to the hips at the sides and is tightly fitted by curved seams and long darts. It is of net stretched over taffeta and mounted on a firmly boned net foundation. Attached is a bouffant frou-frou skirt of pleated triple flounces of net edged with ribbon. At the sides additional fullness is achieved by rows of enormous rosettes formed by pleated net frills interleaved with bands of stiffening. The frilled mass is held buoyant by two full and complicated petticoats of nylon, stiffening and further net frills. The strain of the heavy skirts is mainly taken by the waist stay, and zips and hooks and eyes fastenthe back.
Worn and given by Lady Elizabeth von Hoffmannsthal
The Cecil Beaton Collection
T.51-1974 [1983-84]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Categories
Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Collection code
T&F
