Physical description
Full length evening dress of black silk velvet with a woven pattern of small checks. The fitted bodice has a low and wide round neck, slightly wider at the shoulder to cover the top of the arm. It has an inset of black velvet, shaped as a brassiere with a hook fastening at the back and trimmed with two black velvet bows. The bodice has a horizontal panel with a centre front 'V'. The skirt is gathered at the waist and arranged to drape as bouffant panniers and caught at the back like a knot. The skirt from knee to hem is straight, though slightly fuller at the back. Centre back zip fastening. With net frill support.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1948 (made)
Artist/maker
Jean Dessès, born 1904 - died 1970 (designer)
Bianchini-Férier (textile, designer)
Materials and Techniques
Silk velvet and net
Dimensions
Circumference: 67 cm waist, Circumference: 82 cm bust, Circumference: 200 cm bottom hem
Descriptive line
Full length evening dress of silk velvet, designed by Jean Dessès, textile designed by Bianchini-Férier, Paris, 1948
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Vogue (France), October 1948, p.43.
Advert for Bianchini Férier
Miller, L.E., 'Perfect Harmony', in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, London: 2007), p.122 and pl.5.6&7
Rapport with the couturiers was fundamental, as firms that restructured too fast discovered. Bianchini Férier, for example, a major supplier oc silks before the war and keen advertiser in Vogue post-war (pl.5.6), restructured in 1944 and 1948.
Mendes, Valerie. Black In Fashion. London: V&A Publications, 1999. p. 55.
Exhibition History
Black in Fashion (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1999-31/12/1999)
The Little Black Dress (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1983-31/12/1984)
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1972-31/12/1972)
Labels and date
Evening gown
Jean Dessès (1904-70)
Paris
1948 autumn/winter
This gown featured in French Vogue in October 1948. The magazine promoted both couturier and fabric supplier by name. Bianchini Férier had provided Parisian couturiers with impressive silks since the late 19th century. The weight and textural qualities of this velvet lend themselves well to the construction and shape of Dessès' draped, bouffant style.
Voided silk velvet by Bianchini Férier
Given by the Hon. Mrs J.J. Astor
V&A: T.113-1974 [22/09/2007]
EVENING DRESS, voided silk velvet (chequerboard pattern) and velvet
French, Paris, Jean Dessés, about 1948
In the late 1940s and early 1950s, freed from the oppression of war, Paris based designers expeirmented with a variety of exotic shapes, some based on historical dress. Fabric was stiffened, padded, weighted and under-pinned to achieve impressive but often impractical shapes. Here Jean Dessés explores the possibilities of panniers set against a sheath dress. Black gives the form immediate drama. Intricately cut, the dress has a tightly fitted bodice with a stand-away neckline revealing a velvet modesty trimmed with bows. The bodice front has a V-shaped yoke which attaches to the skirt and gathered to the same seam are side panniers shaped by stiff net frills. The pannier panels curve behind where they cross and slot into the lower back of the skirt. The skirt is straight and tight at the front and has a fishtail at the back.
Worn and given by the Hon, Mrs J J Astor
The Cecil Beaton Collection
T.113-1974 [1983-84]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Categories
Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
