Trousers (Hakama) thumbnail 1
Not on display

Trousers (Hakama)

1800-1880 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The formal costume for male members of the Japanese court is known as ‘sokutai’ and consists of various layers of long upper garments, or hô, and two pairs of hakama, a type of lower garment variously described as full-cut trousers or a divided skirt. This is a pair of outer hakama, woven in white silk with roundels of wisteria. This wide garment is slightly pleated at the top, open at the sides, and ties around the waist with broad bands. The red silk lining is revealed at the side openings, hems, along the bands and on the two broad loops that conceal the opening at the crotch. White, laced double cords reinforce the top of the side seams, and pairs of cords, elaborately knotted at intervals, decorate the long waist bands.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Figured twill silk (mon aya), silk lining and silk cord
Brief description
Man's court outer trousers (ue no hakama) of white figured silk, Japan, 1800-1880
Physical description
Outer trousers (ue no hakama) for a man, part of the formal dress of the Japanese Imperial Court, with long waist ties and two broad strips which loop front to back at crotch. White twill silk with wisteria roundels, with red lining which shows at the edges of the sides, hems, waist bands, ties and loops. Pairs of cords, threaded through and tied in places in elborate knots, decorate the long waist bands and there are laced double cords at the top of the side seams.
Dimensions
  • Across hem width: 88cm (approx.)
  • Length: 93.5cm
Credit line
Given by T. B. Clarke-Thornhill
Summary
The formal costume for male members of the Japanese court is known as ‘sokutai’ and consists of various layers of long upper garments, or hô, and two pairs of hakama, a type of lower garment variously described as full-cut trousers or a divided skirt. This is a pair of outer hakama, woven in white silk with roundels of wisteria. This wide garment is slightly pleated at the top, open at the sides, and ties around the waist with broad bands. The red silk lining is revealed at the side openings, hems, along the bands and on the two broad loops that conceal the opening at the crotch. White, laced double cords reinforce the top of the side seams, and pairs of cords, elaborately knotted at intervals, decorate the long waist bands.
Bibliographic reference
Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6. This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)
Collection
Accession number
T.66-1915

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Record createdFebruary 20, 2003
Record URL
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