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Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Japan, Room 45, The Toshiba Gallery

Kesa

1700-1850 (kesa) (made), 1580-1620 (fabric) (woven)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This is a kesa’, the rectangular garment worn by Japanese Buddhist priests. Kesa are made of a sewn patchwork of cloth, the arrangement of the sections of fabric into columns surrounded by a border serving as a mandala, a symbolic rendering of the universe. The central column represents the Buddha, the two columns either side his attendants, and the four patches at the corners the cardinal directions. The act of sewing the garment is in itself a devotional pursuit.

During the Edo period (1603-1868) kesa fabric was often specially woven in Kyoto, but kesa were also made from cloth donated to temples. The fabric of this kesa was originally fashioned as a theatrical robe worn by the Komparu troup of No actors and dates to the late sixteenth-early seventeeth century. The Tokyo National Museum has such a robe made of identical fabric.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Polychrome figured silk
Brief description
Buddhist priest's mantle (kesa), polychrome figured silk, fabric probably woven in Kyoto between 1580-1620, kesa made in Japan, 1700-1850.
Physical description
Buddhist priest's mantle (kesa) of woven silk with decoration of crests (mon) against a geometric ground with additional patches with floral motif.
Dimensions
  • Length: 112.5cm
  • Width: 205cm
Styles
Gallery label
Buddhist robe (kesa) 1700–1850; woven 1580–1620 Kesa were sometimes made from secular garments donated to temples. This example was fashioned from theatrical robes worn by a troupe of Nō actors in the late 16th or early 17th century. The roundels that make up the pattern include the triple hollyhock crest (mon) of the ruling Tokugawa family, indicating their patronage of the actors and perhaps also of the temple.] Kyoto Figured silk Given by Mr T.B. Clark-Thornhill Museum no. T.140-1927 (04/11/2015)
Credit line
Given by T.B. Clarke-Thornhill
Object history
Registered File number 1927/3502.
Subjects depicted
Summary
This is a kesa’, the rectangular garment worn by Japanese Buddhist priests. Kesa are made of a sewn patchwork of cloth, the arrangement of the sections of fabric into columns surrounded by a border serving as a mandala, a symbolic rendering of the universe. The central column represents the Buddha, the two columns either side his attendants, and the four patches at the corners the cardinal directions. The act of sewing the garment is in itself a devotional pursuit.

During the Edo period (1603-1868) kesa fabric was often specially woven in Kyoto, but kesa were also made from cloth donated to temples. The fabric of this kesa was originally fashioned as a theatrical robe worn by the Komparu troup of No actors and dates to the late sixteenth-early seventeeth century. The Tokyo National Museum has such a robe made of identical fabric.
Bibliographic references
  • Greenhalgh, Paul (Ed.), Art Nouveau: 1890-1914 . London: V&A Publications, 2000
  • Jackson, Anna. Japanese textiles. London: V&A Publications, 2000, Plate 32, p. 21.
Collection
Accession number
T.140-1927

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Record createdFebruary 20, 2003
Record URL
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