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Dress

1946 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A black afternoon dress with a good label was both a chic choice and a sensible one. Edward Molyneux (1891-1974) could be relied on to provide streamlined distinction. This dress has a schoolmistress-like authority and propriety; its covered-up look features a demure high neck, long sleeves and a safe, calf-length skirt. However, Molyneux transformed it into a little black dress with attitude by cutting the matt crepe to skim sensuously over the body's curves and by introducing pleats at salient points. A wide sash arranged in folds below the waist emphasised the slenderness of the wearer. The dress buttons down the back.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk crêpe
Brief description
Silk crêpe day dress, designed by Edward Molyneux, London, 1946
Physical description
Black silk crêpe day dress with a pleated trim and buttons.
Gallery label
DAY DRESS, rayon crepe.
French, Paris, Molyneux, about 1948

An elegant dress is achieved by the varied handling of a single fabric. In a subtle way plain areas of the matt crepe are set against pleated panels and trimmings. The under-dress is a simple sheath with a fitted bodice, long sleeves, squarish padded shoulders and a straight skirt. The high V neck has a narrow pleated frill - echoed by the cuffs. The theme is taken up again in the overskirt which consists of two parts. The low horizontal and softly pleated yoke lies across the front and at the back becomes a sash while the lower straight overskirt terminates in a deep edging of knife pleats, handled by Molyneux in his usual masterly way. One of his first independent designs to be illustrated (1919) was a suit with an immaculately pleated skirt.

Worn by Mrs Opal Holt and given by Mrs D M Haynes and Mrs M Clark
T.92-1982
Credit line
Given by Mrs D.M. Haynes and Mrs M. Clark
Object history
Opal Holt was born in Canada in 1887 but lived in the US until the end of the Second World War. She travelled extensively between the wars and was in the first plane to land in Bali. She married Herbert Holt, a Canadian who lived a large part of his life in England, as her third husband in 1946. They came to England and Europe every summer and Opal Holt began buying clothes in Paris for her life in England, and for the Bahamas in Winter, over a period of about thirty years. She died in 1980.

Given by Mrs D.M Haynes and Mrs. Clark (nee Holt; Opal Holt's step-daughters).
Summary
A black afternoon dress with a good label was both a chic choice and a sensible one. Edward Molyneux (1891-1974) could be relied on to provide streamlined distinction. This dress has a schoolmistress-like authority and propriety; its covered-up look features a demure high neck, long sleeves and a safe, calf-length skirt. However, Molyneux transformed it into a little black dress with attitude by cutting the matt crepe to skim sensuously over the body's curves and by introducing pleats at salient points. A wide sash arranged in folds below the waist emphasised the slenderness of the wearer. The dress buttons down the back.
Bibliographic reference
Mendes, Valerie. Black In Fashion. London: V&A Publications, 1999.
Collection
Accession number
T.92-1982

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Record createdFebruary 19, 2003
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