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Mantle

Mantle

  • Place of origin:

    France (probably, made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1840 - ca. 1845 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Velvet lined with diagonally quilted silk with satin rouleaux finishes

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Miss Lettice Walsh

  • Museum number:

    T.130-1963

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

This dress demonstrates the fashionable style of about 1840. The skirt of the dress is fuller than in the 1830s, and so heavy that it is made separately from the bodice. The bodice is pointed at the front of the waist and boned to hold the point in place. Full, ‘bishop’-style sleeves are set below the shoulder and the bodice has a wide, off-the-shoulder neckline. This was inspired by portraits of the 1660s, as was the popular hairstyle with bunches of ringlets at the side of the face. The dress would have been worn with an appliquéd velvet mantle embroidered with flowers. Loose mantles, cloaks and capes were popular forms of outer coverings during this period. When skirts are very full, they are easier to wear than tightly fitting coats and jackets.

Physical description

Cloak of deep wine coloured velvet. It is a full length cloak, and is gathered onto a circular yoke, over which hangs a a rounded collar with a deep point at the back. There are slits for the arms and the hem is curved up at each side seam. Around the neck is stitched a matching cord with taselled ends to fasten at the front.Tassels and rosettes trim the vents at the side seams and the point of the collar. All the edges are bound with pink, wine, white and green satin rouleaux and it is trimmed with satin stitch embroidery in silk in shades of green, pink and yellow in a rose design. A trail of buds lies around the collar, and there are full roses at the hem and arm slits. It is fully lined in diagonal, quilted rose pink silk. The finish of the embroidery suggests that it was carried out professionally.

Place of Origin

France (probably, made)

Date

ca. 1840 - ca. 1845 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Velvet lined with diagonally quilted silk with satin rouleaux finishes

Object history note

Registered File number 1963/1494

Historical context note

A similar example is illustrated in Townsends Monthly Journal for 1840 - 1841.

Descriptive line

Cloak, France, ca. 1840 - ca. 1845

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Four Hundred Years of Fashion, V&A, 1984, , cat 40, ISBN:
0002171899.

Materials

Silk

Techniques

Satin weave; Velvet weave; Embroidery

Subjects depicted

Roses; Rosettes

Categories

Clothing; Europeana Fashion Project

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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