In the 1960s a group of jewellers based in London were in many ways ahead of their time. Working within the mainstream market for precious jewellery, they experimented with contemporary designs and materials. They explored new methods of applying gold and devised unconventional shapes for settings.

For women in high society this jewellery offered a new way of expressing wealth and status. What counted was creative expression and individuality, not big flashy stones and material values. Diamonds were no longer the only gemstone to be a ‘girl’s best friend’.

John Donald’s first professional experience as a jeweller began when he studied at the Royal College of Art (1952-56). The modern movements in architecture, sculpture and painting led him to see jewellery as a form of art. Jewellery was no longer a decorative accessory, Donald’s jewellery developed into abstract sculptural expressions, which he created through innovative explorations of treating metals and integrating asymmetrical natural minerals. He tested the boundaries of heat, and often misused flames to create his trademark visual effects and textured surfaces. The stones in their fine wire settings often appear to float in space. Experimenting with molten gold in water, John Donald created a myriad of fascinating shapes with which to work. From this initial research came his famous 'crown' design which marked a complete departure from any previous jewellery concept. The stones were set on very fine wires, all at different levels within the textured goldwork of the crown.

His career took off in 1960 and in 1961 he showed his work in the groundbreaking International exhibition of Modern Jewellery at Goldsmiths’ Hall. By 1964 HRH Princess Margaret and HRH Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother became patrons of his work.