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Robe

Robe

  • Place of origin:

    France (probably, made)

  • Date:

    1775-1780 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown (production)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silk satin, embroidered with chenille thread, silk ribbon, bobbin lace, trimmed with satin, feathers and raffia tassels, lined with silk and linen

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Miss Louise Band

  • Museum number:

    T.180&A-1965

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

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This is an example of the most formal ensemble for a woman in the late 1770s, except for court dress. It is a sack-back gown, worn over square hoops and very elaborately decorated. Feathers, lace, raffia tassels and lengths of satin embellish an already embroidered satin. The pale colours, small floral motifs and light application of the decorations show that the influence of the Rococo style was beginning to wane.

Physical description

Full dress robe and petticoat of silk satin trimmed with polychrome silk and chenille embroidery, bobbin lace and artificial flowers. Lined with silk. A sack back robe with a closed bodice which fastens with hooks and eyes, trimmed with a pale blue flat pleated ruched ribbon which runs around the edges of the bodice opening, pointed waist and square neck. The borders are trimmed with padded bands of blue satin, chenille blonde, flowers of gathered ribbon, feathers and raffia tassels enclosing sprays and garlands of embroidered flowers in shades of pink and green.

The skirt fronts are edged with cream cotton bobbin lace over pale blue ribbon and the bodice is edged with blue ribbon. The pointed bodice, with centre front opening, fits tightly. The side seams mould the figure, lacing under the back pleats, and a waist seam extends to the side back. The skirt is cut to take a medium-wide hoop. Draw ribbons through the pocket slits of the skirt and the five-panel petticoat may have adjusted them to the size of different hoops.

Place of Origin

France (probably, made)

Date

1775-1780 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown (production)

Materials and Techniques

Silk satin, embroidered with chenille thread, silk ribbon, bobbin lace, trimmed with satin, feathers and raffia tassels, lined with silk and linen

Object history note

Parallels to this rich melange can be found among the sample embroideries at the Musee des Tissus in Lyon (nos B.874, 878, 880).

Historical context note

In the engraving 'Les Adieux', J.M. Moreau le Jeune shows a dress of similar cut and style of decoration.
Copy of it in PDP in pressmark EL51

Descriptive line

Sack back robe and petticoat of silk satin embroidered with chenille thread, and bobbin lace, probably made in France, 1775-1780

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Natalie Rothstein, Four Hundred Years of Fashion (V&A Publications, 1984), p. 126.

Categories

Textiles; Embroidery; Fashion; Formal wear; Lace; Women's clothes

Collection code

T&F

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Qr_O74217
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