This costume, made from a mixture of imported and local fabrics and dating from the early 20th century, was worn by a Palaung woman of the court of Taingbaing in the Northern Shan States of Burma. The costume consists of a purple silk satin blouse with silk embroidery and woolen panels and a red cotton and silk pinstriped skirt, partly concealed by colourful aprons. Separate white satin sleeves edged in red wool and a long hood of lilac Chinese damask and red imported English wool complete the outfit. The use of imported materials--whatever their quality and however arranged--was a sign of wealth and status.
The Palaung of Taingbaing (also spelt Taungbaing or Tawngpeng - the principality within the North Shan States, whose capital was Namhsan, north east of Mandalay) are a hill people, whose long established involvement with tea cultivation and trade made them richer than most of the other hill communities who practised slash and burn agriculture.
Physical description
[Sleeve] See IM 37E-1934
[Sleeve] one of a pair of detachable sleeves with IM 37F of white satin, with end borders of red woollen cloth.
Calico lining
[Back apron] Back apron of red woollen cloth, with narrow side-borders of green woollen cloth. Lower border consists of three panels, one of green silk velvet between two others of orange yellow woollen cloth. Decorated with narrow lines of cotton stitchery, forming stripes and conventional blossoms. Each corner of the base has a pair of yellow silk tassels, fixed to coiled steel wires.
Coarse cotton lining.
[Front apron] Front apron of red woollen cloth. Lower border consists of six panels, alternately of orange-yellow woollen cloth and purple silk velvet; these are all decorated with narrow lines of stitchery. Each corner of the base has a triplet of yellow silk tassels, fixed to coiled steel wires. Two small panels of silk brocade (floral pattern) in shades of purple have been inserted at the upper end of the apron, one on each side.
Coarse cotton lining.
[Skirt] A longyi or tubular skirt made from 2 panels which have been stitched together along their weft edges to form a rectangle the ends of which have been joined to create a tube. Upper portion of cotton, the lower of silk; they are woven in variously coloured warp stripes on a red ground.
Unbleached calico lining.
[Blouse] Square cut purple satin tunic. Under the neck opening in front is a panel of chevron ornament in narrow lines of cotton stitchery, which is edged, above and below with rows of stripes; embroidered in chain stitch. Beneath this panel is another of red woollen cloth, stitched all round with chevron striping in yellow and white cotton. The neck-opening is V-shaped and is edged with red wool cloth. The base of the tunic is bordered, at the back, with black silk velvet.
[Hooded cape] Hooded mantle of red woollen cloth; Chinese lilac-coloured damask with a pattern of flowers, fruit and bats; Austrian velvet with a floral design in green cut silk pile on a pileless yellow cotton ground) (or English Flock, machine made - cotton on synthetic silk c. 1900); and purple silk velvet, decorated with narrow lines of stitchery. The red woollen cloth is also decorated with stitchery, dividing it into panels. Coarse cotton lining.
Place of Origin
Shan, Burma (made)
Date
early 20th century (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Wool, Chinese damask, velvet, satin and cotton; stitched, appliquéd and embroidered
Dimensions
[Sleeve] Length: 38 cm, Width: 12.7 cm
[Back apron] Length: 75 cm, Width: 29 cm
[Front apron] Length: 68.5 cm, Width: 82 cm
[Skirt] Length: 101.5 cm, Width: 61 cm
[Blouse] Length: 56 cm, Width: 113 cm across shoulders and sleeves
[Hooded cape] Length: 132 cm, Width: 46 cm
Object history note
This costume was acquired in by the donor while she and her husband were stationed in Burma during the first quarter of the 20th century. Burma at the time was under British rule and administered from India. Her husband was attached to the Educational Service of the Government of India.
On a visit to the Indian Students Room in 1995 Eleanor Gaudoin (granddaughter of a Shan Sawbwa (ruler) of Hsenwi) stated that the Palaung were a hill tribe and not Shan and that she thinks this costume belonged to either a wife of a minor Sawbwa or to a lesser wife. The costumes worn at the courts of the major Shan sawbwas closely resembled those worn at the Court of the kings at Mandalay.
Descriptive line
Costume of a Palaung woman from the Court of Taungbaing, Northern Shan States in Burma which includes a skirt, back and front aprons, an outer cape and separate sleeves. Of multiple coloured fabrics, imported and domestic, applique work and embroidery. early 20th century
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Rosemary Crill, Jennifer Wearden, Verity Wilson; Dress in Detail From Around The World; V&A Publications 2002; p. 36
Materials
Cotton; Wool; Velvet; Satin; Damask
Techniques
Weaving; Embroidery; Stitching; Appliqué
Collection code
SSEA
