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Woman's jacket

Woman's jacket

  • Place of origin:

    Shan (made)

  • Date:

    first quarter 20th century (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Glazed cotton with appliqué work and hand-sewn

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Mr R. Grant Brown, Esq.

  • Museum number:

    IM.77-1922

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

This handmade jacket is part of an arresting costume of dark hues, subtle patterns and brilliant silver work. It would have been worn as an every day garment, as well as on special occasions, by a woman of the Akha hill tribe of Kentung State--the eastern most state of Burma which borders Thailand.

The ensemble was worn by an Akha woman on a visit to Mandalay, and there it was purchased from her by the donor. The whole costume includes a jacket with two long swinging ropes of beads and seeds which hang at each side, a gathered skirt, a breast cloth, separate leggings as well as personal ornaments and a conical palm-leaf hat. The latter strikingly is decorated with rings of glass beads, seeds and straw-work and a heavy fringe of coloured glass beads and side strings of white seeds and brightly coloured tassels.

The Akha are a farming people with deep beliefs in the supernatural and they celebrate not only the usual harvest and new year festivals, but also hold ceremonies accompanied by animal sacrifices and other rituals. The Akha originally came from Yunnan in Southern China and a Chinese influence is evident in the scrolling appliqué work in the panels at the bottom of the back of the jacket.

Physical description

Loosely fitting jacket of glazed cotton with set-in sleeves. Black ground with applique panels of red, blue, green and white cotton on the sleeves, around the neck and at the bottom of the back. With additional scrolling applique work on the back panels. Two long swinging ropes of beads and seeds hang at each side.

Place of Origin

Shan (made)

Date

first quarter 20th century (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Glazed cotton with appliqué work and hand-sewn

Dimensions

Width: 57 cm across shoulders, Length: 76.5 cm shoulder to hem, Length: 43 cm sleeves

Object history note

The costume was worn by a girl of the Akha Tribe of the Southern Shan States on a visit to Mandalay and was there purchased from her by the Donor.

Woman's jacket from a costume worn by a woman of the Akha hill tribe of Kentung District, Southern Shan States Burma. An ensemble that includes personal ornaments and a distinctive conical hat as well as a jacket, gathered skirt, breast cloth, separate leggings. Mainly of black cotton fabric, with applique of bright and variously coloured cottons, and embroidery of beads (glass and seeds) and cowrie shells. ca. 1st quarter 20th century

Descriptive line

Woman's jacket of glazed cotton, Shan, first quarter of 20th century

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)


Paul and Elaine Lewis: "Peoples of the Golden Triangle".
pp.130-131, ill.
Dress in detail from around the world / Rosemary Crill, Jennifer Wearden and Verity Wilson ; with contributions from Anna Jackson and Charlotte Horlyck ; photographs by Richard Davis, drawings by Leonie Davis. London: V&A Publications, 2002 Number: 1851773770 (hbk), 1851773789 (pbk)

Production Note

Attribution note: Made by a woman of the Akha Tribe

Materials

Cotton; Beads; Seeds

Techniques

Stitched; Appliqued

Categories

Women's clothes; Textiles

Collection

South & South East Asia Collection

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