Necklace thumbnail 1
Necklace thumbnail 2
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

This object consists of 2 parts, some of which may be located elsewhere.

Necklace

1947-48 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Flexible, ribbed tubes of gold had appeared in the late 1930s. They remained very fashionable for necklaces and bracelets throughout the 1940s. Made from interlocking angular links, they were known as ‘snakes’ or ‘gas-pipes’, depending on how they were constructed. Gold remained fashionable for gem-set jewellery. It had returned to prominence because of the wartime requisitioning of platinum for the armaments industry. In 1947, when this necklace was made, the purchase tax on new jewellery was set at 125 per cent. The Utility Standard for home use was 9-carat gold. The 18-carat gold of this necklace was possible only because it was commissioned by a client in Alexandria in Egypt.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Necklace
  • Case
Materials and techniques
White and yellow gold, set with diamonds, sapphires and rubies
Brief description
White and yellow gold, set with diamonds, sapphires and rubies. Designed and made by Eyna Wolko Podolsky, England, 1947-8.
Physical description
Necklace made up of two hollow, flexible 'snake' chains. One chain of white gold and the other of yellow gold, joining into a clip fastening at one end and ending in two gold pine cone shaped drops surmounted by two collars, one of sapphires and the other of rubies at the other end. The two free-hanging chains run through an open scrolling band at the front, set with brilliant-cut diamonds bordered by a thin band of table-cut rubies on one side and of sapphires on the other. This part doubles as a clip which can be worn separately.
Dimensions
  • Unfastened length length: 39.5cm
  • Height: 19.4cm
  • Width: 11.5cm
  • Depth: 1.8cm
Marks and inscriptions
EP (1) Makers's mark)
Translation
Mark for Eyna Podolsky
Object history
Paul Podolsky, the son of the maker, stated that in 1947, 18ct gold was possible only for export and that this necklace had been made for their client Abdul Maleek in Alexandria.
Production
This necklace was designed and made for Wartski's.
Summary
Flexible, ribbed tubes of gold had appeared in the late 1930s. They remained very fashionable for necklaces and bracelets throughout the 1940s. Made from interlocking angular links, they were known as ‘snakes’ or ‘gas-pipes’, depending on how they were constructed. Gold remained fashionable for gem-set jewellery. It had returned to prominence because of the wartime requisitioning of platinum for the armaments industry. In 1947, when this necklace was made, the purchase tax on new jewellery was set at 125 per cent. The Utility Standard for home use was 9-carat gold. The 18-carat gold of this necklace was possible only because it was commissioned by a client in Alexandria in Egypt.
Bibliographic reference
'Jewels and Jewellery' Clare Phillips, V&A Publications, 2000
Collection
Accession number
M.29-1982

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Record createdFebruary 3, 2003
Record URL
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