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Robe

1800-1900 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This robe was worn by a Daoist priest in China in the 19th century. Daoism, China's native religion, is experiencing a revival today. Many different styles of vestments are worn for the rituals. The central yin-yang symbol (yang and yin is a dynamic, complementary conceptual system that governs everything) surrounded by the Eight Trigrams, as on this garment, continue to be favoured as decoration.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Satin-weave silk, embroidery in silk and metallic threads
Brief description
Daoist priest robe, satin-weave silk, embroidery in silk and metallic threads, China, Qing dynasty, 1800-1900
Physical description
Daoist priest robe of dark blue satin-weave silk, with scarlet satin borders and sleeve bands; embroidered with coloured silks and gold thread. Probably worn when attending worship at a Daoist temple.
On the back is the yin-yang symbol, the creative monad, enveloped in rays. On other parts of the garment are the eight trigrams within medallions strewn with fruit, flowers, and Daoist symbols. The intervals are filled with flying cranes, bats and scrolled clouds. The borders are embroidered with flower-baskets, bats, ruyi sceptres and floral stems.
Dimensions
  • Length: 128cm
  • Width: 166.5cm
Style
Marks and inscriptions
‘棧金銀庫緞’ (zhan jinyin ku duan) (The inscription is woven and located at the bottom of the proper left sleeve. It seems that one or more characters are missing, probably covered by the cuff of red satin. The inscription indicates that the dark indigo satin-weave silk was woven in Nanjing for the imperial court. This workshop specialised in weaving brocade and satin.)
Gallery label
DAOIST ROBE QING DYNASTY 1800-1900 The robe would have been worn during a religious ceremony. It is embroidered with Daoist symbols, including the Yin and Yang (T'ai Chi or Taiji) and the Eight Trigrams (Bagua). Most of these Daoist robes are made from full widths of uncut silk with limited seaming, but this one is unusual in having sleeves and side seams. Silk satin embroidered with silk and gold thread. China Museum no. 1620-1901
Object history
Purchased from Mr. P. Kierulff (Villa Peking, Hellerup, Denmark), accessioned in 1901. This acquisition information reflects that found in the Asia Department registers, as part of a 2022 provenance research project.
Purchased. Registered File number 31783/191.

Note on register:
A dark satin cloak with scarlet borders and sleeve bands gorgeously embroidered in bright colours and gold.
The large golden disc on the back enveloped in blue rays is the yin and yang symbol. The creative monad with its two nuclei of ancient Chinese philosophy, the eight trigrams being displayed within medallions strewn with fruit, flowers and symbols of Daoist character, on other parts of the garment. The intervals are filled in with scrolled clouds and flying storks carrying flowers in their beaks. The red borders are embroidered with flower baskets, bats, ruyi sceptres and other symbols. Such a coat would be appropriately worn when attending worship at a Daoist temple in olden time, and it may have figured as the costume of some Boxer chieftain, as they are described in narratives of the siege of the Legations at Beijing as clothed in cloaks of this nature. It was perhaps originally an imperial cloak. The satin being woven with the brand of the Treasury manufactory.
Subjects depicted
Summary
This robe was worn by a Daoist priest in China in the 19th century. Daoism, China's native religion, is experiencing a revival today. Many different styles of vestments are worn for the rituals. The central yin-yang symbol (yang and yin is a dynamic, complementary conceptual system that governs everything) surrounded by the Eight Trigrams, as on this garment, continue to be favoured as decoration.
Bibliographic reference
Wilson, Verity, "Cosmic Raiment: Daoist Traditions of Liturgical Clothing" in Orientations, May 1995, pp. 42-49
Collection
Accession number
1620-1901

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Record createdJanuary 27, 2003
Record URL
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