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Evening dress
  • Evening dress
    Natalia Goncharova, born 1881 - died 1962
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Evening dress

  • Place of origin:

    paris, France (made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1923 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Natalia Goncharova, born 1881 - died 1962 (designer)
    Marie Cuttoli, born 1879 - died 1973 (designed for)
    House of Myrbor (retailer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silk with embroidered silk and velvet appliqués with metal thread, bound with lamé

  • Museum number:

    CIRC.329-1968

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

  • Image in copyright

This mid-calf evening dress is made of multi-coloured silk and velvet appliqué on red silk. Natalia Goncharova designed it for the Maison Myrbor (House of Myrbor) in Paris about 1923. The dress is sleeveless and has a square, straight shape with a wide, round neckline. The shoulders are slightly rushed and there are slits on both sides of the dress from the hip level down. The appliqués are embroidered with metallic thread. The neck and armholes are bound with lamé.

Natalia Goncharova (1881-1962) had a long career with Sergei Diaghilev's Ballets Russes. She produced astonishing costumes that were inspired by her Russian background and her work with avant-garde artists. Like many Russian refugees in Paris, she also designed dresses. These strongly reflected her work for Diaghilev. Between 1922 and 1926 she worked for the Maison Myrbor. This exclusive shop was owned by the Italian Marie Cuttoli. It sold fashion, rugs and curtains designed by the international avant-garde.

Physical description

Evening dress made of multi-coloured silk and velvet appliqués on red silk. Mid-calf and sleeveless dress with a square and straight shape, a round and wide neckline, shoulders slightly rushed, and slits on both sides of the dress from hip-level down. The appliqués are embroidered with metallic thread. The neck and armholes are bound with lamé. Hand-sewn.

Place of Origin

paris, France (made)

Date

ca. 1923 (made)

Artist/maker

Natalia Goncharova, born 1881 - died 1962 (designer)
Marie Cuttoli, born 1879 - died 1973 (designed for)
House of Myrbor (retailer)

Materials and Techniques

Silk with embroidered silk and velvet appliqués with metal thread, bound with lamé

Dimensions

Weight: 0.4 kg, Length: 44 in back of neck to hem

Object history note

This dress was worn by Miss Emilie Grigsby (1876-1964) who was a wealthy independent American who came to England from New York. She established a salon which was frequented by writers and the military. She was considered to be one of the great international beauties, with extremely pale, almost transparent skin and golden hair. She was frequently the subject of articles in the New York Times during the early 20th century. Her clothes were purchased from couturiers in London, Paris, and New York, and demonstrated an elegantly avant-garde approach to style.

At the time of acquisition, Miss Grigsby's friend, Miss Chisholm said that the patchwork on similar Myrbor items was the work of Madame Coutoli, who had workshops in Algeria.

Historical context note

Natalia Goncharova had a long career with Les Ballets Russes, producing astonishing costumes inspired by her Russian heritage and her work with the avant-garde. Like many Russian refugees in Paris, she also designed dresses, which strongly reflected her work for Diaghilev. Between 1922 and 1926, Natalia worked for the House of Myrbor, an exclusive shop owned by the Italian Marie Cuttoli, who sold fashion, rugs and curtains designed by the international avant-garde.

Descriptive line

Silk evening dress with embroidered silk and velvet appliqués, designed by Natalia Goncharova for Marie Cuttoli, retailed by House of Myrbor, Paris, ca. 1923

Exhibition History

Art Deco (01/01/2003-31/12/2003)

Production Note

For the House of Myrbor (Maison Myrbor)

Materials

Silk; Velvet; Lame

Techniques

Hand sewing; Hand embroidery; Applique

Categories

Textiles; Embroidery; Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes

Production Type

Haute couture

Collection code

T&F

Qr_O72715
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