Brooch thumbnail 1
Brooch thumbnail 2
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Brooch

ca. 1825 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The Maltese cross is the symbol of an order of Christian warriors known as the Knights Hospitaller or Knights of Malta. A gold Maltese cross was presented to Lady Hamilton, wife of the English Minister to Naples, by the Emperor of Russia. This encouraged a vogue for the Maltese cross and it remained popular in the 1830s and 1840s.

The colourful and flamboyant jewellery of the 1820s and 1830s could be set with up to a dozen different stones within a rich gold and coloured gold framework. Special manufacturing techniques and decorative effects were used to achieve an expensive finish using smaller amounts of gold. Although lightly made, this opulent jewellery looked heavier than earlier Neo-classical work.

The highly ornate filigree work of spirals (cannetille) and granules (grainti) added an appealing relief texture, but it was more popular on mainland Europe than in England, where clients preferred more substantial areas of plain gold.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Tortoiseshell, decorated with gold cannetille work, turquoises and a pearl
Brief description
Maltese cross brooch, tortoiseshell, decorated with gold cannetille work, turquoises and a pearl, western Europe, about 1825
Physical description
Maltese cross brooch, tortoiseshell, decorated with gold cannetille work, turquoises and a pearl. May have been used as a pendant.
Dimensions
  • Height: 4.9cm
  • Width: 4.5cm
  • Depth: 1.2cm
Credit line
Bequeathed by Rosemary Eve Lawrence
Subject depicted
Summary
The Maltese cross is the symbol of an order of Christian warriors known as the Knights Hospitaller or Knights of Malta. A gold Maltese cross was presented to Lady Hamilton, wife of the English Minister to Naples, by the Emperor of Russia. This encouraged a vogue for the Maltese cross and it remained popular in the 1830s and 1840s.

The colourful and flamboyant jewellery of the 1820s and 1830s could be set with up to a dozen different stones within a rich gold and coloured gold framework. Special manufacturing techniques and decorative effects were used to achieve an expensive finish using smaller amounts of gold. Although lightly made, this opulent jewellery looked heavier than earlier Neo-classical work.

The highly ornate filigree work of spirals (cannetille) and granules (grainti) added an appealing relief texture, but it was more popular on mainland Europe than in England, where clients preferred more substantial areas of plain gold.
Collection
Accession number
M.25-1996

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Record createdJanuary 8, 2003
Record URL
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