Drawing thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Europe 1600-1815, Room 2, The Wolfson Gallery

Drawing

ca.1770s (made), late 18th century to early 19th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This design for a woven silk dress fabric has been copied onto oiled paper, once transparent but now brown and opaque, that worked like tracing paper. The copied design was then painted in bodycolour. This was a method of reproducing a design and its colour scheme, and was probably done for reference purposes.
The design is for a type of weave known as a tobine in English, and as cannellé in French. A textured, ribbed effect is made by a warp additional to the ground warp, and can be combined with other effects such as brocading. The flowers, leaves, and feather-like shapes in this design were probably intended to be brocaded with coloured silk threads.



Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
watercolour, paper, drawing
Brief description
Design for a woven silk in bodycolour on oiled paper
Physical description
Watercolour on paper
Dimensions
  • Oiled paper height: 187mm
  • Oiled paper width: 202mm
  • Pink paper support height: 195mm
  • Pink paper support width: 211mm
Production typeDesign
Object history
This design was bought on 18 December 1911 from G. Mathias, Jeune in 'Set. no. 9' for 100 francs. It was part of a collection of anonymous original designs many for French textiles, Lyon silks and printed cottons, 18th and early 19th centuries.

Registered file 1911/3636 M
Inv.E.I.D. 327
Production
This design appears to have been copied from another because the drawing in black chalk is on paper that was once transparent. The design was then painted in bodycolour.
Association
Summary
This design for a woven silk dress fabric has been copied onto oiled paper, once transparent but now brown and opaque, that worked like tracing paper. The copied design was then painted in bodycolour. This was a method of reproducing a design and its colour scheme, and was probably done for reference purposes.
The design is for a type of weave known as a tobine in English, and as cannellé in French. A textured, ribbed effect is made by a warp additional to the ground warp, and can be combined with other effects such as brocading. The flowers, leaves, and feather-like shapes in this design were probably intended to be brocaded with coloured silk threads.

Bibliographic references
  • The Textile Museum Lyons Guide to collections p.187 Bernus- Taylor, M. The Textile Museum Lyons Guide to collections. Lyon. 2001
  • Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Engraving, Illustration and Design, Accessions 1911, London, Printed for His Majesty’s Stationery Office 1912
Collection
Accession number
E.4028-1911

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Record createdJune 30, 2009
Record URL
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