The draped skirts of this magnificent 1730s mantua cleverly conceal its complex construction. One of the mantua’s characteristics was a long train, which was sewn as a flat piece of silk and arranged with each wearing. The train was folded up, then folded in and draped over a loop of thread on either side of the waist. In order that the finished side of the silk always show when the mantua was worn, the train was constructed with panels of the right and wrong sides of the fabric sewn together. Pinning up and draping a train successfully was an art and required the help of maids to achieve the perfect effect.
The mantua was worn over a matching petticoat and the resulting ensemble constituted formal daywear in the 1730s. Also typical for this period is the silk, intricately brocaded in a flowing pattern of large, realistically rendered flowers and leaves.
Physical description
Mantua and petticoat of white ground brocaded silk with a 24 inch repeating pattern of trees on an island, and embellished with large pink and darker pink fantastic flowers with a Chinoiserie flush pattern of a group of buildings behind the trees. Hand sewn with 2 ply 'S' spun silk and 2 ply 'S' spun threads.
[Mantua] Front-opening mantua with double pleat robings and very short sleeves with pleated cuffs. The back has four tapering pleats, a long train, and side skirts for draping over the hips. The back is one panel of silk pleated at the bodice and extending into the train. Below the waist, it has been cut off and reversed to allow the right side of the fabric to show when pinned up. The side skirts have been similarly reversed. Brown paper has been used to stiffen the sleeve cuffs. 19th century waistband is fastened with a buckle and imprinted with 'F Venn Horsham'. Brass button and loops attached at the back of the hips.
[Petticoat] Petticoat fastens with ties at the back and is intended to be worn over round hoops. Six panels of silk sewn selvedge to selvedge and arranged in box pleats from centre front to back. The seams at the sides have been left open as pocket slits. The hem is bound with 5/8 inches of silk tape.
Place of Origin
Spitalfields, England (probably, woven)
Great Britain, UK (made)
Date
1733-1734 (woven)
1735-1740 (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Brocaded silk, hand-sewn with spun silk and spun threads, lined with linen, brown paper lining for cuffs, brass, canvas and pleated silk
Dimensions
Width: 20.25 in fabric width
[Mantua] Length: 77.5 in overall, Circumference: 27.25 in bust, Circumference: 22.75 in waist, Width: 63.75 in overall - skirts
[Petticoat] Length: 38.25 in centre back - waist to hem, Length: 37.75 in side - waist to hem, Circumference: 116.25 in at hem, Weight: 1.2 kg
Object history note
Alterations: Moderate alterations and additions were made for fancy dress in the late 19th century, which have been removed or reversed.
Historical significance: The pattern of the silk is representative of a new three-dimensional approach that developed in the early 1730s. The very short sleeves of the mantua correspond to the period circa 1736-1739; similar examples appear in portraiture.
[Mantua] Alterations: A waistband added in the 19th century was removed by Tex Cons. They added reproduction loops and buttons for mounting.
[Petticoat] Alterations: The petticoat was reconfigured for fancy dress. Tex Cons returned the waist to its original pleats, and added a silk lining and ribbon waistband for mounting. Very little of the 18th century construction is visible.
Historical context note
This is an example of formal day wear for a woman in the 18th century.
Descriptive line
Mantua and petticoat of white brocaded silk, probably woven in Spitalfields between 1733-1734 and made in Great Britain, 1735-1740.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Hart, Avril and North, Susan. Historical Fashion in Detail: The 17th and 18th Centuries. London: V&A Museum, 1998, p. 60
Ginsburg, Madeleine. Economy and Magnificence. V&A Album 6, 1986, pp. 55-68
Materials
Silk (textile); Canvas; Brass; Silk thread; Linen (material); Linen thread; Brown paper
Techniques
Hand sewing; Brocaded; Pleated; Lining
Subjects depicted
Flowers; Trees; Buildings; Island
Categories
Textiles; Fashion; Day wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Unique
Collection code
T&F
