This ensemble of mantua and petticoat exemplifies court dress, the most formal of English 18th century clothing. Court dress was an exclusive and very ornate style of clothing worn by the aristocracy, the only people usually invited to attend at Court.
The embroidered skirt is open-fronted, and would have had extensive folds and pleats to flow into a long train at the back. The embroidered petticoat would have been visible at the front. It would have fastened at the back and been worn over large square hoops.
Leafy scrolls and vases, quintesssential Rococo motifs, are featured with a profusion of realistically rendered flowers. This ensemble recalls a garment worn by the Duchess of Queensbury in 1740: 'her cloathes were embroidered upon white satin; Vine leaves, Convulvus and Rosebuds shaded after Nature ...'. The mantua has been extensively altered, probably for fancy dress in the late 19th century.
Physical description
Court mantua composed of a gown and petticoat made of embroidered cream coloured silk with a design of large flowers sprouting from urns set in a border of swags and trellises. The ensemble has been extensively altered for fancy dress in the late 19th century. Silk hand sewn with 2 ply 'S' spun silk thread and embroidered with coloured silk and silver gilt threads, frisé, bullion and purl.
[Mantua] Open-fronted mantua with robings and a pleated back flowing into a long train. The sleeves are short elbow length with pleated cuffs. The skirts below the waist loop back to drape over the hips. One panel at the back is pleated to the waist and extends as a train. The embroidery at the top of the mantua skirts is reversed to show the right side when draped. The robings, sleeve cuffs, mantua skirts and train edges are embroidered.
Extensive alterations probably for fancy dress. Back pleats have been taken out and reset. Side seams were taken in. There was probably a bodice lining, which has now gone, and reproduction lining by Tex Cons for mounting. Front robings and pleats were taken out and reworked. Sleeves removed and lengthened at the shoulder. Train appears to have been cut off. Tex Cons returned as much as possible to original shape.
[Petticoat] Petticoat back-fastens with ties and designed to be worn over wide square hoops. Six panels of silk are sewn together and then embroidered. The back seam was completed after embroidery. Pocket slits at each side were cut into the fabric.
Trellised border with urns at the lower hem, from which flowers grow upwards.
Tex Conx have added lining and net backing. Original seams not visible. Several lines of stitching and folds at waist. Current fixing of pleats and waist for mounting has obliterated any original arrangements.
Place of Origin
England, Great Britain (made)
Date
1740-1745 (made)
1875-1900 (altered)
Artist/maker
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Embroidered silk with coloured silk and metal threads
Dimensions
Width: 26.75 in selvedge to selvedge
[Mantua] Length: 72 in, Circumference: 36.5 in bust, Circumference: 36 in waist, Width: 71.5 in, Weight: 1.46 kg
[Petticoat] Length: 36.5 in centre front, Length: 39.25 in side, Circumference: 130.75 in hem, Width: 65.75 in hem
Object history note
Historical significance: The size of the elements in the embroidery design indicates the early 1740s. The pleated cuff on the mantua is slightly old fashioned; the style of the late 1730s rather than the winged version seen in the 1740s.
Historical context note
This ensemble represents court dress, the most formal of English 18th century dress. It would have been worn by a woman of aristocratic birth for attendance at court.
Descriptive line
Court mantua composed of a gown and petticoat of embroidered silk with coloured silk and metal threads, England, 1740-1745
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Donald King, ed. British Textile Design in the Victoria & Albert Museum, Tokyo, 1980, Vol I, colour plate 104
Michael Snodin, Rococo: Art and Design in Hogarth's England, London: V&A Museum, 1984, p.218 and fig.10
Avril Hart and Susan North, Historical Fashion in Detail: The 17th and 18th Centuries, London: V&A Museum, 1998, p.64
Exhibition History
Displayed in the Costume Court, Gallery 40
Materials
Silk; Silk thread; Metal thread
Techniques
Hand sewing; Hand embroidery
Subjects depicted
Flowers; Vase
Categories
Textiles; Embroidery; Fashion; Women's clothes
Production Type
Unique
Collection code
T&F
