This is an example of a woman's formal day ensemble in Britain in the late 1730s. Elbow-length sleeves with a deep pleated cuff characterised the mantua, or gown, during this decade. Looped-up and draped bodice skirts and a pinned-up train are typical features of a mantua. The silk design represents an early example of the new patterns of the 1730s, which emphasised the three-dimensional nature of the forms. The dark, rich colours seen here were popular during the early decades of the 18th century.
Physical description
Mantua and petticoat of brocaded silk with brown ground and maroon, red, green, blue and white flower sprigs arranged in a symetrical pattern.
[Mantua] Style: A mantua with open front and revers, short elbow-length sleeves with deep pleated cuff. The skirts below the waist are pulled back with loop and button and draped over the hips.
Construction: The back and train are 1 panel of silk with bodice back set in 4 tapering pleats arranged to match the silk pattern. The square neck at the back is self-bound and mitred. The fabric of the train and skirts has been reversed to show right side when correctly draped. The bodice appears to have had a silk taffeta lining.
Alterations: The bodice has been altered for wear as fancy dress in late 19th century. The train has been permanently stitched up. Sleeve lining was added by Textile Conservation.
[Petticoat] Style: A back fastening round petticoat to be worn over circular hoops.
Construction: Seven panels of silk sewn selvedge to selvedge, with seam at centre front and slit at centre back for opening. Openings at side seams constitute pocket slits.
Alterations: Traces of stitch lines at waist. Fancy dress wear and conservation for mounting has obliterated any original pleating and finishings at waist and hem.
Place of Origin
Spitalfields, England (woven)
Great Britain, UK (made)
Date
ca. 1732 (woven)
1735-1740 (sewn)
Artist/maker
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Tabby ground silk brocaded with chenille thread, hand-sewn with 2 ply S spun silk thread.
Dimensions
Width: 55.2 cm loom width, Length: 55.9 cm Repeat
[Mantua] Length: 57.5 in overall, Circumference: 29 in bust, Circumference: 23.5 in waist, Width: 70 in overall at skirts, Weight: 1.46 kg
[Petticoat] Length: 42 in, Circumference: 141.75 in at hem, Weight: 1.62 kg
Historical context note
A woman's formal day ensemble of the late 1730s. The mantua evolved from its informal version in the late 17th century. By this period, the construction is more structured and the once flowing train fixed in its pinned up position. The silk design represents an early example of the new patterns of the 1730s, which emphasised the three-dimensional nature of the forms.
Descriptive line
Silk mantua and petticoat, Spitalfields, England, woven ca. 1732
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Rothstein, Natalie, ed., Four Hundred Years of Fashion, London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 1982, reprinted 1992, no.4, pp.19, 122
Rothstein, Natalie, Woven Textile Design in Britain to 1750, London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 1994, no.47
Exhibition History
Dress Court in Gallery 40 (01/01/1982-31/12/1992)
Materials
Silk; Silk taffeta
Techniques
Hand sewing; Brocading
Categories
Fashion; Formal wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Unique
Collection code
T&F
