Not currently on display at the V&A

Robe

1855 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The distinctive side-fastening panel that passes over the chest of this young man's robe is typical of a type of angarkha. This panel is secured in two places inside the robe with green silk ties, and another pair keeps the waist closed. The robe is unusual in that it is made of the fine Kashmir wool more often associated with shawls. The intricate, spiralling pattern in couched gold-wrapped thread is typical of the work of Kashmir and of Panjab, where this coat would have been worn. Its lightly padded woollen material would have protected the wearer from the severe winters of these northern areas. The brilliant green ties are echoed in the neck-facing and lining of the same material.
The angarka was acquired by the Indian Museum in London, and transferred to South Kensington in 1879.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk, with applied gold ribbon (<i>gota</i>) and silk lining at the hem and front opening
Brief description
Young man's silk robe, with applied gold ribbon, Lahore, mid 19th century.
Physical description
This young man's robe(angarkha) has embroidery and applique work using ribbon woven of silk and gold-wrapped thread('gota') that was formerly associated with the princely state of Bahawalpur. The use of gold 'gota' is very much a part of the Rajasthani court style.
Dimensions
  • Height: 111cm
  • At shoulders width: 30cm
Object history
Transferred from the India Museum in 1879. Slip book entry 3766: 'Male Clothing / Lahore / 55 / Cashmere Choga / White Robe & Red Satin Tunic & also Red Silk drawers Silk Strings attached'. 1880 Register entry: '05643. CHOGA. Scarlet cashmere, embroidered with gold. Robe, white muslin, embroidered with gold. Tunic, red satin. "Pyjamas," striped red silk with silk strings; Lahore"
Summary
The distinctive side-fastening panel that passes over the chest of this young man's robe is typical of a type of angarkha. This panel is secured in two places inside the robe with green silk ties, and another pair keeps the waist closed. The robe is unusual in that it is made of the fine Kashmir wool more often associated with shawls. The intricate, spiralling pattern in couched gold-wrapped thread is typical of the work of Kashmir and of Panjab, where this coat would have been worn. Its lightly padded woollen material would have protected the wearer from the severe winters of these northern areas. The brilliant green ties are echoed in the neck-facing and lining of the same material.
The angarka was acquired by the Indian Museum in London, and transferred to South Kensington in 1879.
Associated objects
Bibliographic references
  • Crill, Rosemary and Nasreen Askari. 'Colours of the Indus: Costume and Textiles of Pakistan'. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1998. 104p.,ill.162. Catalogue of the exhibition held at the Victoria and Albert Museum, 9 October 1997 - 29 March 1998. ISBN 1858940443.
  • Dress in detail from around the world / Rosemary Crill, Jennifer Wearden and Verity Wilson ; with contributions from Anna Jackson and Charlotte Horlyck ; photographs by Richard Davis, drawings by Leonie Davis. London: V&A Publications, 2002 Number: 1851773770 (hbk), 1851773789 (pbk) pp14-15
Other number
3766 - India Museum Slip Book
Collection
Accession number
05643:1/(IS)

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Record createdNovember 11, 2002
Record URL
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