This sleeveless, mid-calf evening coat is straight cut, with a centre front opening and no means of fastening. It has a narrow band collar. The coat is made of silver grey silk lined with blue satin. A design of random patchwork appliqué in shades of blue, silver and gold and green is stitched from shoulder to hem at the sides and along the bottom. The patchwork is overstitched. Natalia Goncharova designed it in 1925 for the Maison Myrbor (House of Myrbor) in Paris.
Natalia Goncharova (1881-1962) had a long career with Sergei Diaghilev's Ballets Russes. She produced astonishing costumes that were inspired by her Russian background and her work with avant-garde artists. Like many Russian refugees in Paris, she also designed dresses. These strongly reflected her work for Diaghilev. Between 1922 and 1926 she worked for the Maison Myrbor. This exclusive shop was owned by the Italian Marie Cuttoli. It sold fashion, rugs and curtains designed by the international avant-garde.
Physical description
Sleeveless evening coat, mid-calf length, of hand-embroidered silk and satin. Straight cut with a narrow band collar, and a centre front opening with no means of fastening. The coat is made of silver-grey silk lined with blue satin. With a design of random patchwork appliqués in shades of blue, silver, gold and green stitched from shoulder to hem at the sides and along the bottom. The patchwork is over stitched.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
ca. 1925 (made)
Artist/maker
Natalia Goncharova, born 1881 - died 1962 (designer)
Marie Cuttoli, born 1879 - died 1973 (probably, designed for)
House of Myrbor (retailer)
Materials and Techniques
Hand-sewn and hand-embroidered silk and satin, appliqué, lined with satin
Dimensions
weight: 0.82 kg
Object history note
This mantle was worn by Miss Emilie Grigsby (1876-1964) who was a wealthy independent American who came to England from New York. She established a salon which was frequented by writers and the military. She was considered to be one of the great international beauties, with extremely pale, almost transparent skin and golden hair. She was frequently the subject of articles in the New York Times during the early 20th century. Her clothes were purchased from couturiers in London, Paris, and New York, and demonstrated an elegantly avant-garde approach to style.
At the time of acquisition, Miss Grigsby's friend, Miss Chisholm said that the patchwork on this mantle was executed by Madame Coutoli, who had an embroidery workshop in Algeria.
Historical context note
Natalia Goncharova had a long career with Les Ballets Russes, producing astonishing costumes inspired by her Russian heritage and her work with the avant-garde. Like many Russian refugees in Paris, she also designed dresses, which strongly reflected her work for Diaghilev. Between 1922 and 1926, Natalia worked for the House of Myrbor, an exclusive shop owned by the Italian Marie Cuttoli, who sold fashion, rugs and curtains designed by the international avant-garde.
Descriptive line
Sleeveless evening coat of hand-embroidered silk and satin, designed by Natalia Goncharova probably for Marie Cuttoli, retailed by House of Myrbor, Paris, ca. 1925
Exhibition History
Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/2010-31/12/2011)
Production Note
Designed for Maison Myrbor
Materials
Silk; Satin; Gold thread
Techniques
Hand sewing; Hand embroidery
Categories
Textiles; Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Unique
Collection code
T&F
