This hat is known as the ‘ji fu guan’, which means ‘the hat worn with auspicious garments’. As the name suggests, this type of hat was worn (by empresses and imperial consorts) on festive occasions. This particular hat was made to be worn for a wedding. The ‘ji fu guan’ is similar to, but to be distinguished from, the ‘chao guan’ (the court hat) which was worn on official or ritual occasions.
The brim of the hat is lined with fur, indicating that it was worn in winter. Summer hats tended to be lined with satin or velvet. The hat is also decorated with precious stones and blue kingfishers' feathers.
Physical description
[Wedding hat] A red satin wedding hat, with black seal fur brim. The red satin crown is ornamented with a trellis of interlocking circles in eight segments, the framework covered with kingfisher feathers. These panels are further ornamented with decorative moths composed of coral bodies, bright green jade wings, and seed pearls on the end of coiled wire antennae; and a variety of floral motifs composed of jade, glass, coral, seed pearls and kingfisher feathers. The hat is surmounted by a coiled coral bead topknot, with swastika emblems defined in seed pearls and kingfisher feathers. Two long red satin streamers are attached to the back of the hat, in the form of a queue, and are embroidered in fine green silk cord, gilt thread, seed pearls and coral beads with a design of stems of leaves and double gourds; each of the latter with the characters 'ta chi' - 'great good fortune' defined in coral beads. The streamers are finished with multi-coloured silk tassels.
[Storage box and lid] The oval box, with original padded silk lining, is painted on the outside on a red lacquer ground with a design, in gilt, of three medallions (two on the sides of the box and one on the lid) comprising a dragon and a pheonix amid clouds, and surrounding a double hsi (wedded joy) character. The wooden lid is lacquered and painted.
Place of Origin
China (made)
Date
19th century (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
[Wedding hat] Silk satin with seal fur. decorated with gold thread, semi-precious stones and kingfisher feathers
[Storage box and lid] Wood, lacquered and painted, padded silk
Dimensions
[Wedding hat] Height: 17 cm, Width: 22 cm
[Storage box and lid] Height: 28 cm
Object history note
From Sotheby’s sale of English and Continental Furniture, Rugs and Carpets, Textiles, Costume etc. Friday, August 1st 1975, lot 63 I
Purchased. Registered File number 1975/2130.
Descriptive line
Wedding hat, highly decorated red silk satin with seal fur brim, lidded storage box of red and gilt lacquer, China, Qing dynasty, 19th century
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Verity Wilson, Chinese Dress, London: V&A Publications, 1986, t page 82, fig 75
Materials
Silk (textile); Wood; Glass; Metal thread; Coral; Fur; Jade; Seed pearls; Oriental lacquer; Kingfisher's feather
Techniques
Embroidering; Satin weave; Lacquering; Painting (coating); Lining (process)
Subjects depicted
Floral patterns; Dragons; Clouds; Phoenix; Swastikas; Moths; Moth
Categories
Textiles; Marriage; Hats & headwear; Formal wear
Collection code
EAS
