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Origan

  • Object:

    Fashion design

  • Place of origin:

    Paris (designed)
    New York (possibly, drawn)

  • Date:

    1913-14 (designed)
    1950s (drawn)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Erté, born 1892 - died 1990 (artist)
    Paul Poiret, born 1879 - died 1944 (designed for)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    pencil, indian ink, watercolour and gold paint

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Mrs Gilbert Russell

  • Museum number:

    E.572-1969

  • Gallery location:

    Prints & Drawings Study Room, level C, case GG, shelf 93

Physical description

One of 22 designs for women's dresses. Evening dress with golden harem skirt.

Place of Origin

Paris (designed)
New York (possibly, drawn)

Date

1913-14 (designed)
1950s (drawn)

Artist/maker

Erté, born 1892 - died 1990 (artist)
Paul Poiret, born 1879 - died 1944 (designed for)

Materials and Techniques

pencil, indian ink, watercolour and gold paint

Marks and inscriptions

(2) Inscribed on verso: 'Ridou 69'.

(3) Inscribed: ' blouse d'été', and on verso: '43 Ridou'.

(4) Inscribed on verso: 'Ridou 70'.

(5) Inscribed on verso: '33 Ridou'.

(6) Inscribed: 'Blouse d'hiver', and on verso: 'Ridou 72'.

(7) Inscribed: '53 Ridou'.

(8) Inscribed on verso: '31 Ridou'

(9) Inscribed on verso: '30 Ridou'.

(10) Inscribed on verso: '16'.

(11) Signed: 'Erté. Erté' and inscribed on verso: '40 Ridou'.

(12) Inscribed on verso: '69 Ridou'.

(13) Inscribed on verso: '54 Ridou'.

(14) Inscribed on verso: '38 Ridou'.

(15) On verso sketch of an overcoat. Inscribed: '26 Ridou'.

(16) Inscribed on verso: '71 Ridou'.

(17) On verso: evening dress. Inscribed: '69 Ridou'.

(18) Inscribed on verso: '66 Ridou'.

(19) Inscribed on verso: 'Ridou 62'.

(20) Inscribed: '47 Ridou'.

(21) Inscribed on vers: '18 Ridou'.

(22) Inscribed: ' "Origan". Robe du Soir', and on verso: '64 Ridou'.

Dimensions

Height: 22.2 cm, Width: 13.3 cm

Object history note

Most of Erté's designs for Poiret (for whom he worked in 1913-14) are unsigned, as Poiret himself used to sign the works of his employees. The designs listed here were recognised and drawn by Erté much later, in the 1950s. Adrienne Ridou, whose name is repeated on the drawings, was the leading dressmaker at Poiret's and carried out Erté's designs.

Descriptive line

Erté for Paul Poiret. Evening dress with gold harem skirt. Designed in Paris, 1913-14, but drawn in 1950s probably in New York.

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Salmina-Haskell, L., Catalogue of Russian Drawings, London: V & A, 1972, pp. 14-15, cat. 35.

Materials

Pencil; Indian ink; Watercolour; Gold paint

Techniques

Drawing; Watercolour

Categories

Fashion; Designs; Women's clothes; Drawings

Collection

Prints, Drawings & Paintings Collection

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