Pair of double-ikat dyed silk handkerchiefs or rumals, probably woven by Chhotalal M. Salvi, Patan, Gujarat, 1991

Pair of double-ikat dyed silk handkerchiefs (rumals) which are two joined squares. The designs have elements of the traditional patola. The dyes used are indigo (blue), turmeric and marigold flowers (yellow), catechu (Acacia catechu: orange), and madder (red) with tin-chloride and alum mordants to fix the dyes.

Each of the pieces has a different design, one based on star shapes, the other floral.

Ikat is a type of weaving where the threads are tie-dyed before weaving to create designs on the finished fabric. The dyeing process begins with binding the resist areas with impermeable yarn or rubber bands. The precision of the wrapping determines the clarity of the design. After wrapping, the threads are dyed, but the areas under the ties retain their original colour. Numerous colours can be added after additional wrappings. When the dyeing process is complete, the warp threads are meticulously arranged on the loom to prepare the design. The natural movement during weaving gives ikat designs their characteristic feathered edge. Techniques with matching patterns on warp and weft are called double ikat.

IS.33-1991