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Stomacher

  • Place of origin:

    France (possibly, made)
    Italy (possibly, made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1750 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Straw splints couched to linen, with silk and silver thread embroidery

  • Museum number:

    T.68-1947

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Alongside straw-plaiting and straw marquetry, a method of utilising straw in embroidery developed in the 17th and 18th centuries. Flattened straw splints were used as thread for traditional embroidery stitches, such as satin and stem stitch, couching and padded work. Straw couching can be seen in this mid-18th century stomacher. It consist of seven bands of straw splints couched to a linen band, where the straw splints are embroidered with silks in shades of blue and green in floral motifs. In the centre of each band is a six-petalled flower embroidered in silver thread with a sequin centre.

Physical description

Stomacher consisting of seven bands of split straw work couched on to a linen band, which is in turn backed with paper. Between this and a second layer of paper is a gauze like fabric which also extended between the bands. The straw splints are embroidered withs silks in shades of blue and green in floral and leaf motifs. In the centre of each band is a six petalled flower embroidered in silver thread with a sequin centre. Each band is trimmed with tufted cream silk braid, and cream ribbed silk band edges the triangular piece. The whole is backed by a piece of cream silk.

Place of Origin

France (possibly, made)
Italy (possibly, made)

Date

ca. 1750 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Straw splints couched to linen, with silk and silver thread embroidery

Dimensions

Length: 364 mm, Width: 285 mm maximum

Descriptive line

Stomacher of bands of couched straw splints with silk and silver thread embroidery

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Wood Murray, Anne. 'Straw Embroidery on Costume', Waffen- und Kostümkunde - Zeitschrift der Gesellschaft für historische Waffen- und Kostümkunde. München: Deutsche Kunstverlag, 1978, pp. 95-106, ill

Production Note

Presumably of French or Italian origin

Materials

Straw; Paper; Linen; Braid; Silver thread; Sequin; Silk thread; Silk (textile)

Techniques

Couched; Hand embroidery; Hand sewing

Subjects depicted

Floral

Categories

Embroidery; Fashion; Europeana Fashion Project

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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