Not currently on display at the V&A

Stomacher

1760s (made)
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

Alongside straw-plaiting and straw marquetry, a method of utilising straw in embroidery developed in the 17th and 18th centuries. Flattened straw splints were used as thread for traditional embroidery stitches, such as satin and stem stitch, couching and padded work. Straw couching can be seen in this mid-18th century stomacher. It consists of seven bands of straw splints couched to a linen band, where the straw splints are embroidered with silks in shades of blue and green in floral motifs. In the centre of each band is a six-petalled flower embroidered in silver thread with a sequin centre.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Materials and Techniques
Straw splints couched to linen, with silk and silver thread embroidery
Brief Description
Woman's stomacher, 1760s, Italian or French; linen couched with straw and coloured silks, applied to silk
Physical Description
Stomacher consisting of seven bands of split straw work couched on to a linen band, which is in turn backed with paper. Between this and a second layer of paper is a gauze like fabric which also extended between the bands. The straw splints are embroidered with silks in shades of blue and green in floral and leaf motifs. In the centre of each band is a six petalled flower embroidered in silver thread with a sequin centre. Each band is trimmed with tufted cream silk braid, and cream ribbed silk band edges the triangular piece. The whole is backed by a piece of cream silk.
Dimensions
  • Length: 364mm
  • Maximum width: 285mm
Production
Presumably of French or Italian origin
Subject depicted
Summary
Alongside straw-plaiting and straw marquetry, a method of utilising straw in embroidery developed in the 17th and 18th centuries. Flattened straw splints were used as thread for traditional embroidery stitches, such as satin and stem stitch, couching and padded work. Straw couching can be seen in this mid-18th century stomacher. It consists of seven bands of straw splints couched to a linen band, where the straw splints are embroidered with silks in shades of blue and green in floral motifs. In the centre of each band is a six-petalled flower embroidered in silver thread with a sequin centre.
Bibliographic Reference
Wood Murray, Anne. 'Straw Embroidery on Costume', Waffen- und Kostümkunde - Zeitschrift der Gesellschaft für historische Waffen- und Kostümkunde. München: Deutsche Kunstverlag, 1978, pp. 95-106, ill
Collection
Accession Number
T.68-1947

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record createdOctober 9, 2002
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