These turban jewels, made and intended to be worn together, were presented to Admiral Charles Watson (1714-1757) by Mir Ja'far, the new Nawab of Bengal on 26 July 1757, following the battle of Plassey. They were inherited by the Townley family, relatives of the Admiral, following his death in India shortly after the battle, and remained in their possession in England until sold at auction in London in 1982, when they were bought by the V&A. They are a rare example of securely datable 18th century Indian jewels.
Conflicts between the Siraj ad-Daula, the Nawab of Bengal, and the English East India Company whose influence was expanding in Bengal, led ultimately to the Battle of Plassey in 1757. Robert Clive (1725-1774) led the land forces of the East India Company, and Admiral Watson commanded the fleet. Mir Ja'far, Siraj ad-daula's general, failed to support the Nawab in the battle, allowing the Company's army to prevail. Mir Ja'far was then installed as Nawab, and presented lavish gifts as rewards to Clive, and to Watson, including these jewels. The style of the pieces, which have backs enamelled in translucent green and red over a white ground, and jewelled fronts, is within the Mughal tradition found all over the northern provinces of the subcontinent. The specific form, however, is typical of Bengal and, particularly, of its capital Murshidabad. The style is seen in contemporary paintings of Murshidabad, and it is probable that the jewels were taken from the treasury rather than being made especially for presentation by Mir Ja'far.