Phulkari thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Phulkari

c.1881-2 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Phulkari ('flower work') was produced in northern India, particularly in the Punjab, where Caspar Purdon Clarke acquired his examples. Designs are embroidered onto evenly woven cotton cloth (khadi, khaddar) usually dyed terracotta red or indigo blue. Narrow strips of cloth are often joined together to make the whole piece. Untwisted soft floss silk (heer, pat) is used, mostly yellow and white, which reflects the light, lending a lustrous appearance to the finished piece. There are different types of phulkari work. Some leave parts of the cloth empty as part of the design. Hindu pieces usually include images of figures and animals; Muslim and Sikh work have geometric designs. In the type known as bagh ('garden', 'ground'), almost the whole surface of the cloth is covered with patterns done in surface darning stitch, as in this example. Double running stitch was used for other designs, and a variety of additional stitch types added. Phulkari was made for everyday clothes and especially for ceremonial wear at weddings and festivals. Each type has a special name, such as Bagh, Chope, Sainchi, Darshan Dar, Vari da Bagh. Shishadar or sheesh bagh incorporates mirror work as in this example.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Cotton embroidered with silk and decorated with mirrors
Brief description
Woman's head-cover, cotton embroidered with floss silk, Rohtak, Haryana, c.1881-2
Physical description
Rectangular, cotton head-cover made up of two panels, embroidered with floss silk in a geometric design. The borders are also decorated with small, circular mirrors.
Dimensions
  • Length: 213cm
  • Width: 137cm
Production typeUnique
Object history
1883 Register entry: DRESS PIECE (Phulkari). Dark red cotton. Embroidered with yellow silk and ornamented with discs of looking glass. Rohtak, Puinjab. 19th cent. L. 7 ft., W. 4 ft. 6 in. Bought, 9s. 1842.-1883. (I.S.).
Summary
Phulkari ('flower work') was produced in northern India, particularly in the Punjab, where Caspar Purdon Clarke acquired his examples. Designs are embroidered onto evenly woven cotton cloth (khadi, khaddar) usually dyed terracotta red or indigo blue. Narrow strips of cloth are often joined together to make the whole piece. Untwisted soft floss silk (heer, pat) is used, mostly yellow and white, which reflects the light, lending a lustrous appearance to the finished piece. There are different types of phulkari work. Some leave parts of the cloth empty as part of the design. Hindu pieces usually include images of figures and animals; Muslim and Sikh work have geometric designs. In the type known as bagh ('garden', 'ground'), almost the whole surface of the cloth is covered with patterns done in surface darning stitch, as in this example. Double running stitch was used for other designs, and a variety of additional stitch types added. Phulkari was made for everyday clothes and especially for ceremonial wear at weddings and festivals. Each type has a special name, such as Bagh, Chope, Sainchi, Darshan Dar, Vari da Bagh. Shishadar or sheesh bagh incorporates mirror work as in this example.
Bibliographic reference
Indian embroidery / Rosemary Crill ; photography by Richard Davis. London: V&A Publications, 1999 Number: 185177310X, 1851772944 (pbk.) p. 22, cat. no. 125. ill. p. 125.
Collection
Accession number
IS.1842-1883

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Record createdJune 12, 2002
Record URL
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