Design
13/06/1710 (designed)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
This design is from an album that contains 104 designs for fine woven silk cloth and is dated June 13th 1710. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like James Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716, as well as five designs from the 1730s.
James Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design reveals that it was commissioned by Mr Carr, one of the most important mercers of his day, who supplied goods to the Crown on a large scale. Between 1707 and 1711 Mr Carr bought 7 of Leman's earlier designs.
James Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design reveals that it was commissioned by Mr Carr, one of the most important mercers of his day, who supplied goods to the Crown on a large scale. Between 1707 and 1711 Mr Carr bought 7 of Leman's earlier designs.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper |
| Brief description | Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper, by James Leman, Spitalfields, 1710 |
| Physical description | Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', in pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper, with the main features in brown wash of fantastic, plant-like curving stems bearing orange and dark brown seedheads, a shape with straight sides and Chinoiserie-style clouds. Superimposed on these features are floral sprigs with orange and red flowers and pale and dark brown leaves. The design is squared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in ink. |
| Dimensions |
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| Marks and inscriptions |
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| Credit line | Purchased with Art Fund support and the National Heritage Memorial Fund |
| Object history | This is a design from the so-called 'Leman album' which was bought from Vanners Silks Ltd. in 1991. Natalie Rothstein catalogued the designs before the album was bought by the Victoria and Albert Museum. She gave each design a VS number (for Vanners Silks) in her catalogue Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century. The designs have been subsequently numbered by the Prints, Drawings and Paintings Department, however, a concordance exists. Historical significance: The designs collected in the album are, with the exception of some fragmentary medieval examples in Italian collections, the earliest silk designs known to exist. |
| Summary | This design is from an album that contains 104 designs for fine woven silk cloth and is dated June 13th 1710. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like James Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716, as well as five designs from the 1730s. James Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design reveals that it was commissioned by Mr Carr, one of the most important mercers of his day, who supplied goods to the Crown on a large scale. Between 1707 and 1711 Mr Carr bought 7 of Leman's earlier designs. |
| Bibliographic reference | Rothstein, Natalie. Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 351p., ill. ISBN 0500235899.
p. 103, pl. 19
Full text of the entry is as follows:
'London June 13th 1710 This
pattern for an orrace tissue Brocaded
with Silk Gold for Mr Carr & comp
400 cords No 8 & 12 - 115 Desins in
6 Simples
For my Father Peter Leman
James Leman
Squared up in pencil for cords and dezines,
with dezines numbered in ink.
23 3/4" (60.3) x 10 3/8" (26.4) [pl. 19]
HJ.558, CT.18339 VS79' |
| Other number | VS.79 - 'VS' stands for Vanners Silks which owned the album when Natalie Rothstein catalogued it for her publication <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | E.1861:88-1991 |
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| Record created | May 7, 2002 |
| Record URL |
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