Design
- Place of origin:
Spitalfields, England (designed)
- Date:
07/02/1709-1710 (designed)
- Artist/Maker:
Leman, James, born 1688 - died 1745 (designer)
- Materials and Techniques:
Pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper
- Credit Line:
Purchased with the assistance of The Art Fund and the National Heritage Memorial Fund
- Museum number:
- Gallery location:
- Download image
The design on the right shows a large curvilinear shape with straight edges on alternate sides in brownish green with fantastic flowering plants uprooted and trailing their roots over the brownish green shape. This design is dated February 7th 1709/10. This date reflects the Julian calendar dates when the year began on 25th March (Lady Day). The Gregorian calendar was not used in England until 1751.
James Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design reveals that it was commissioned by Mr Tullie, a mercer who was an important customer of Leman who bought 25 silks between 1708 and 1721 which were mostly the more expensive kinds.
This design is from an album that contains 97 designs for fine silk cloth. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716.
Physical description
Design with a large curvilinear shape with straight edges on alternate sides, in brownish green, with fantastic flowering plants uprooted and trailing their roots over the brownish green shape.
Place of Origin
Spitalfields, England (designed)
Date
07/02/1709-1710 (designed)
Artist/maker
Leman, James, born 1688 - died 1745 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper
Marks and inscriptions
'London Feb. 7th 1709/10. For my father [/] James Leman [the entire design pasted down and the inscription invisible] Orrace tissue brocaded for Mr Tully. 70 dezines No 8 & 12'
Squared up in ink for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in ink.
Dimensions
Height: 36.5 cm, Width: 25.7 cm, Height: 14 3/8 in, Width: 10 1/8 in
Object history note
This is a design from the so-called Leman album which was bought from Vanners & Co. in 1991. Natalie Rothstein catalogued the designs before the album was bought by the Victoria and Albert Museum. She gave each design a VS number (for Vanners Silks) in her catalogue 'Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century'. The designs have been subsequently numbered by the Prints, Drawings and Paintings Department, however, a concordance exists.
Historical significance: The designs collected in the album are, with the exception of some fragmentary medieval examples in Italian collections, the earliest silk designs known to exist.
Descriptive line
Design for woven silk from the Leman album
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Rothstein, Natalie 'Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour'. London : Thames and Hudson, 1990. pp.96-107.
Exhibition History
Flowered Silks (Victoria and Albert Museum 08/08/1990-28/08/1990)
Materials
Pencil; Watercolour; Ink
Techniques
Drawing; Painting
Collection code
PDP
