Design
- Place of origin:
Spitalfields, England (designed)
- Date:
- Artist/Maker:
Leman, James, born 1688 - died 1745 (designer)
- Materials and Techniques:
Pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper
- Credit Line:
Purchased with the assistance of The Art Fund and the National Heritage Memorial Fund
- Museum number:
- Gallery location:
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The design on the right (when unfolded) shows a central pale blue vertical stripe, on either side of which are wide floral bands on which are orange scrolling leaf shapes, and the stalks of large orange flowers which lie on the central stripe. This design is dated August 21st 1711.
James Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design states that is was made for Mr Wittington, a mercer who bought 33 of Leman's designs between 1708 and 1721.
This design is from an album that contains 97 designs for fine silk cloth. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716.
Physical description
Design with a central pale blue, vertical stripe on either side of which are wide, floral bands on which are orange, scrolling leaf shapes and the stalks of large, orange flowers which lie on the central stripe.
Place of Origin
Spitalfields, England (designed)
Date
21/08/1711 (designed)
Artist/maker
Leman, James, born 1688 - died 1745 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper
Marks and inscriptions
'London Aug: 21st 1711 This pattern for a [crossed out] Damask with a flush & brocd:
for Mr Wittington & Comp / 450 cords No 8 & 10//105 Dez in 6 simples / For my Father Peter Leman / by me James Leman / the ground to be sattin / the yallow...............damask / the deep green............a back shoot / the orange color:...............to be gold / the pail blue...........................silver / the scarlett ) brocaded / the pink ) > silk / the pail green ) / the blue )'
Some calculations.
Squared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in ink.
Dimensions
Height: 48.9 cm, Width: 26.7 cm, Height: 19 1/4 in, Width: 10 1/2 in
Object history note
This is a design from the so-called Leman album which was bought from Vanners & Co. in 1991. Natalie Rothstein catalogued the designs before the album was bought by the Victoria and Albert Museum. She gave each design a VS number (for Vanners Silks) in her catalogue 'Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century'. The designs have been subsequently numbered by the Prints, Drawings and Paintings Department, however, a concordance exists.
Historical significance: The designs collected in the album are, with the exception of some fragmentary medieval examples in Italian collections, the earliest silk designs known to exist.
Descriptive line
Design for woven silk from the Leman album
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Rothstein, Natalie 'Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour'. London : Thames and Hudson, 1990. pp.96-107.
Exhibition History
Flowered Silks (Victoria and Albert Museum 08/08/1990-28/08/1990)
Materials
Pencil; Watercolour; Ink; Bodycolour
Techniques
Drawing; Painting
Collection code
PDP
