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Design

Design

  • Place of origin:

    Spitalfields, England (designed)

  • Date:

    22/04/1706 (designed)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Leman, James, born 1688 - died 1745 (designer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper

  • Credit Line:

    Purchased with the assistance of The Art Fund and the National Heritage Memorial Fund

  • Museum number:

    E.1861:14-1991

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

  • Download image

The design on the right is pasted upside down in the album. It shows a long pattern of large flowers and a round green shape like a melon near the top of the design. There is a round shape like a ball decorated with parallel red stripes near the bottom of the design, above which is a large pod shape decorated with panels of flowers alternating with stripes. This design is dated April 22nd 1706.

James Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design states that it is made for his father Peter Leman, showing that he drew it while still an apprentice.

This design is from an album that contains 97 designs for fine silk cloth. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716.

Physical description

A long pattern of large flowers and a round, green shape, like a melon, near the top of the design. There is a round shape, like a ball, decorated with parallel red stripes near the bottom of the design, above which is a large pod shape decorated with panels of flowers alternating with stripes.

Place of Origin

Spitalfields, England (designed)

Date

22/04/1706 (designed)

Artist/maker

Leman, James, born 1688 - died 1745 (designer)

Materials and Techniques

Pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper

Marks and inscriptions

'London ye 22d Apr: 1707. / flowd:sattin to change colours / 400 Cords 8 & 12-120 Dezines long. / for my father P L / by mee James Leman.'
Many calculations on the back.
'A S'

Dimensions

Height: 63 cm, Width: 26.7 cm, Height: 24 3/4 in, Width: 26.7 cm

Object history note

This is a design from the so-called Leman album which was bought from Vanners & Co. in 1991. Natalie Rothstein catalogued the designs before the album was bought by the Victoria and Albert Museum. She gave each design a VS number (for Vanners Silks) in her catalogue 'Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century'. The designs have been subsequently numbered by the Prints, Drawings and Paintings Department, however, a concordance exists.

Historical significance: The designs collected in the album are, with the exception of some fragmentary medieval examples in Italian collections, the earliest silk designs known to exist.

Descriptive line

Design for woven silk from the Leman album

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Rothstein, Natalie 'Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour'. London : Thames and Hudson, 1990. pp.96-107.

Exhibition History

Flowered Silks (Victoria and Albert Museum 08/08/1990-28/08/1990)

Materials

Pencil; Watercolour; Ink; Bodycolour

Techniques

Drawing; Painting

Collection code

PDP

Download image
Qr_O65104
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