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Design

Design

  • Place of origin:

    Spitalfields, England (designed)

  • Date:

    28/05/1712 (designed)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Leman, James, born 1688 - died 1745 (designer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Pencil, pen and ink and watercolour

  • Credit Line:

    Purchased with the assistance of The Art Fund and the National Heritage Memorial Fund

  • Museum number:

    E.1861:8-1991

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

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The design on the left depicts a purple meander, on which are four floral sprigs, on a plain ground consisting of the blank paper, on which are scattered four other purple sprigs. There are five extra motifs, of an irregular shape and size, pasted on at the foot of the page, which are alternative designs for the scattered motifs of this design. This design is dated May 28th 1712.

James Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design reveals that it was commissioned by Mr Hinchcliff. Two generations of mercers with this name bought silks from the Lemans between 1712 and 1747.

This design is from an album that contains 97 designs for fine silk cloth. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716.

Physical description

A purple meander on which are four floral sprigs on a plain ground, indicated by the blank paper as background, on which are scattered four other purple sprigs, three of which terminate in volutes. There are five extra motifs, of irregular shape and size, pasted at the foot of the page. Each of these motifs has its own museum number and is catalogued separately.

Place of Origin

Spitalfields, England (designed)

Date

28/05/1712 (designed)

Artist/maker

Leman, James, born 1688 - died 1745 (designer)

Materials and Techniques

Pencil, pen and ink and watercolour

Marks and inscriptions

'May 28th 1712. Sattin brod. wth. silver
for Mr Hinchliff.
450 cords No.8 & 10-50 Dez.
For my father Peter Leman
J.L.
Ink strokes on the motifs pasted onto the bottom of the page correspond to markings on this design (which is the main one) and thus perhaps indicate where they should be positioned.
Squared up in pencil for cords and dezines.
Some numbering, in pencil, which does not appear to correspond with cords and dezines.

Dimensions

Height: 37 cm, Width: 26 cm, Height: 14 1/2 in, Width: 10 1/4 in

Production Note

Attribution note: The five extra motifs pasted on at the foot of the page are apparently alternative designs for the scattered motifs of this design. This information is taken from Natalie Rothstein 'Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century'. See the 'References' tab for the bibliographic reference.

Materials

Pencil; Watercolour; Pen and ink

Techniques

Drawing; Painting; Handwriting

Collection code

PDP

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Qr_O64980
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