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Design

Design

  • Place of origin:

    Spitalfields, England (designed)

  • Date:

    24/05/1712 (designed)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Leman, James, born 1688 - died 1745 (designer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Pencil and watercolour on laid paper

  • Credit Line:

    Purchased with the assistance of The Art Fund and the National Heritage Memorial Fund

  • Museum number:

    E.1861:5-1991

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

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The design on the right shows two vertical stripes on either side, which are made up of a repeating pattern of shapes resembling fleur-de-lys and acorns. Floral sprigs sprout from alternating sides of each stripe. There are circular sprigs alternating with single flower heads in a vertical line down the centre of the design. This design is dated May 25th 1712.

James Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design reveals that it was commissioned by Mr Hinchcliff. Two generations of mercers with this name bought silks from the Lemans between 1712 and 1747.

This design is from an album that contains 97 designs for fine silk cloth. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716.

Physical description

Design with two vertical stripes on either side each of which is made up of a repeating pattern of shapes resembling fleur-de-lys and acorns. Floral sprigs sprout from alternating sides of each stripe. There are circular sprigs alternating with single flower heads in a vertical line down the centre of the design.

Place of Origin

Spitalfields, England (designed)

Date

24/05/1712 (designed)

Artist/maker

Leman, James, born 1688 - died 1745 (designer)

Materials and Techniques

Pencil and watercolour on laid paper

Marks and inscriptions

'London May 24th 1712. This pattern
for a satin brocd. wth. Silver - to be made
in the satin tissue harness.
450 cords No. 8 & 10-80 Dez.
For Mr Hinchliff
For my father Peter Leman.
James Leman'
Squared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered.

Dimensions

Height: 37 cm, Width: 26.4 cm, Height: 14 1/4 cm, Width: 10 3/8 in

Production Note

Attribution note: This silk was to be woven 'in the satin tissue harness'. The word 'harness' equals the Centre International d'Etude des Textiles Anciens (CIETA) 'figure harness' and implies that Leman had looms ready for particular types of silk.
This information is taken from Natalie Rothstein 'Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century. See the References tab for the full bibliographic reference.

Materials

Pencil; Watercolour

Techniques

Drawing; Painting

Collection code

PDP

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Qr_O64977
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