Paul Birckenhultz (after), One from a suite of six plates, including title plate, showing designs for pendants with grotesques and pearls. Frankfurt, c. 1600.

Design for pendant hung from a ribon with a goat's head mask. The pendant is executed with elaborate strapwork with two griffins at the top and two squirrels, each holding a nut, near the centre.

These engravings from this series that appear in the V&A collection (inventory numbers E.5370-1960 and 22786.2-.4) seem to include work by two different engravers. By looking at the pearls that hang from each of the pendants, it is easy to see whether the designs are shaded on the left or the right. Those shaded on the left seem to be the designs done by Birckenhultz as they are marked “PBF” at the bottom, which stands for Paulus Birckenhultz Fecit (Paul Birckenhultz made this). Those shaded on the right, though apparently part of the same series are marked “P.B.In.” standing for Paulus Birckenhultz Invenit (Paul Birckenhultz designed or invented this), suggesting that these designs were copied later from Brickenhultz’s original designs, accounting for the reversed designs and for the “invenit” inscription, which Birckenhultz himself never used.

Birckenhultz’s beautiful and delicate jewellery designs would have been appropriate for manufacturing either in three dimensional metal work, or in vivid enameling by the goldsmith. Published around 1600 by the well-traveled artists, these designs incorporate elements of nature with fantastical grotesque designs. When translated into jewellery, the pieces would have been worn by wealthy citizens who could afford the gold, enamel, pearls and other gemstones that would have contributed to the production of the pieces.

22786:2