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Not currently on display at the V&A

Costume Design

1935 (Produced)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Full length female figure wearing a fantastical mauve bell-shaped knee-length dress streaked in black, simulating ermine tails, opened down the front to reveal an underskirt of pale beige similarly streaked in black and lined in grey, which can be seen as the back is longer than the front; over the top of the mauve elbow-length sleeves hangs yellow trim with a black hanging fringe. The oval cut low neck is edged in yellow and is a smaller version of an oval thin panel in pale beige streaked with black, that hangs from the waist down the front of the skirt. The neck is twined with yellow strips and they outline the skirt opening, ending at the sides in black ermine tails. The hair is dressed in mauve sausage curls topped with a black bow over a drooping curl fringe. Annotated with fabric notes and painted colour samples. Pencil, watercolour and wash. Costume design inscribed "E. Schooling. Ugly Sister Ball dress" and fabric notes.
On the reverse, a pencil sketch of a similar costume.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Pencil, watercolour and wash on paper
Brief description
Costume design by Andrée Howard for an Ugly Sister in ball dress in Howard's ballet Cinderella, produced by Ballet Rambert, 1935.
Physical description
Full length female figure wearing a fantastical mauve bell-shaped knee-length dress streaked in black, simulating ermine tails, opened down the front to reveal an underskirt of pale beige similarly streaked in black and lined in grey, which can be seen as the back is longer than the front; over the top of the mauve elbow-length sleeves hangs yellow trim with a black hanging fringe. The oval cut low neck is edged in yellow and is a smaller version of an oval thin panel in pale beige streaked with black, that hangs from the waist down the front of the skirt. The neck is twined with yellow strips and they outline the skirt opening, ending at the sides in black ermine tails. The hair is dressed in mauve sausage curls topped with a black bow over a drooping curl fringe. Annotated with fabric notes and painted colour samples. Pencil, watercolour and wash. Costume design inscribed "E. Schooling. Ugly Sister Ball dress" and fabric notes.
On the reverse, a pencil sketch of a similar costume.
Dimensions
  • Height: 534mm
  • Width: 338mm
Production typeUnique
Marks and inscriptions
  • "E. Schooling. Ugly Sister / Ball dress" (Textual information; Across right hand top edge; Handwriting; Pencil)
  • "Dark mauve / with pale yellow" (Textual information; Upper right hand side; Handwriting; Crayon)
  • "cord" (Textual information; To right of sleeve trim; Handwriting; Pencil)
  • "dark mauve" (Textual information; To right of skirt; Handwriting; Pencil)
  • "sateen" (Textual information; to right of skirt; Handwriting; Pencil)
  • "length / just below / the knee / in front / longer at Back" (Textual information; Beside lower edge of skirt; Handwriting; Pencil)
  • "grey casement" (Textual information; to right of back skirt lining; Handwriting; Pencil)
  • "Sister of Cinderella." (Textual information; Lower right hand corner; Handwriting; Pencil)
Credit line
Given by Maude Gosling
Object history
The design is one of five in the Maude Lloyd gift designed by Andrée Howard for her ballet "Cinderella", produced by Ballet Rambert in 1935 at the Mercury Theatre. This is for the Ugly Sister in the opening scene. The dress fitted under the overall (S.635-2001) to facilitate what was undoubtedly a quick change and allow the change in the make-up. The whole costume, with the drooping hair and unflattering colours indicates the downtrodden Sister, danced by Elisabeth Schooling.
Two additional designs, for the Prince (S.204-2000) and Cinderella (S.203-2000) in the ballroom scene are in the Cyril Beaumont Bequest.

Historical significance: An example of ballet design from the 1930s for the significant company Ballet Rambert. Andrée Howard was one of the few choreographers who also designed her own works.
Literary referenceCinderella
Collection
Accession number
S.638-2001

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Record createdSeptember 25, 2001
Record URL
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