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Not currently on display at the V&A

Costume Design

Costume Design
1968 (painted, Drawn)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Designing everyday working clothes is perhaps more difficult than recreating period clothes. There is a danger of overall drabness or similarity of style. This is especially true in an opera like Peter Grimes, set in a Suffolk fishing village, where most men would wear traditional gurnsey sweaters and rubber boots and tradesmen and women would wear drab colours. The designer's problem is to make one fisherman stand out in a community of fishermen.
Not all costumes have to be made from scratch. In this case, the designer has indicated that a set of oilskins already exists in the wardrobe at Sadler's Wells, which can be sprayed to give the right effect. At the end of the day, oilskins are oilskins, and reusing costumes from stock helps keep down the costs and save money for more important costumes.
The attached fabric samples are all of very heavy materials, which help give bulk and weight to the character.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleCostume Design (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Pencil, Pen & Ink, Ink, and Black Crayon, on Paper
Brief description
Costume design by Alix Stone for Eric Shilling as Lamprett Bellboys in "Penny for a Song", Sadler's Wells Opera, Sadler's Wells, October 31st 1967
Physical description
Costume design for Richard Cassilly as Peter Grimes. The design depicts two full length male figures wearing mid 19th century style costume. The costumes consist of a brown jacket worn over black trousers and boots, and a grey cap. The figure on the right also wears a grey waistcoat, white shirt, and yellow patterned neckerchief. At the centre of the design is a pen & ink drawing of an oilskin coat. A strip of card with three fabric swatches are attached with sellotape to the bottom of the design.
Dimensions
  • Height: 374mm
  • Width: 404mm
Production typeUnique
Marks and inscriptions
  • ' A. S. ' (Signature; Lower right hand corner.; handwriting; ink)
  • ' Peter Grimes / Jacket / Sleeveless Jacket / Trousers / Shirt / Neckerchief / Cap / Boots / 'Waterproof' / Oilskins Act I Scene II ' (Textual information; Down the centre of the design.; handwriting; ink)
  • ' (Sadler's Wells Stock - sprayed) ' (Textual information; Lower centre of the design.; handwriting; pencil)
  • ' Not for Sale ' (Textual information; On reverse.; handwriting; pencil)
Credit line
Given by Alix Stone
Object history
This costume design by Alix Stone is part of an extensive collection of designs purchased by the Theatre Museum directly from the artist in 1994. The design was executed for a production of Benjamin Britten's opera "Peter Grimes", performed by Scottish Opera at the Edinburgh King's Theatre, August 19th 1968. The libretto by Montagu Slater is based on George Crabbe's poem "The Borough". The production was conducted by Alexander Gibson; directed by Colin Graham; and lit by Charles Bristow. The cast included Richard Cassilly as Peter and Phyllis Curtin as Ellen Orford.

The production was later revived by Scottish Opera in the springs of 1973 and 1980, and by English National Opera North in the spring of 1979.
Production
Reason For Production: Commission
Subjects depicted
Associations
Literary referencePeter Grimes
Summary
Designing everyday working clothes is perhaps more difficult than recreating period clothes. There is a danger of overall drabness or similarity of style. This is especially true in an opera like Peter Grimes, set in a Suffolk fishing village, where most men would wear traditional gurnsey sweaters and rubber boots and tradesmen and women would wear drab colours. The designer's problem is to make one fisherman stand out in a community of fishermen.
Not all costumes have to be made from scratch. In this case, the designer has indicated that a set of oilskins already exists in the wardrobe at Sadler's Wells, which can be sprayed to give the right effect. At the end of the day, oilskins are oilskins, and reusing costumes from stock helps keep down the costs and save money for more important costumes.
The attached fabric samples are all of very heavy materials, which help give bulk and weight to the character.
Collection
Accession number
S.248-2001

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Record createdJune 1, 2001
Record URL
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