Formal evening gowns were an essential part of a society lady’s wardrobe. Accessorised with jewels, these gowns provided a glittering show at receptions and balls, the opera or the theatre.
This evening dress from around 1950, designed by the London couturier Hardy Amies (1909–2003), is made of crimson silk satin and looks very sumptuous. However, the shape of the dress is created by a lining of thick paper-like material called Vilene, instead of the layers of tulle and silk net petticoats traditionally used by French couturiers. Textile rationing had only just been lifted in Britain (1949) and fabric was still very scarce, so Vilene was used as an economical alternative.
Physical description
Long evening dress made of crimson satin. Sleeveless, heavily boned and wired bodice with flap band of satin at top. Large, draped straps cross the shoulders from the front of the bodice to the back of the bodice ending into a large bow. Long, large and slightly gathered skirt with 2 bows on each side at hips level.
The skirt is lined with vilene for stiffness. The back zip has been re-tacked.
Place of Origin
England, Great Britain (made)
Date
ca. 1950 (made)
Artist/maker
Amies, Edwin Hardy, born 1909 - died 2003 (maker)
Materials and Techniques
Machine stitched silk satin, lined with vilene
Marks and inscriptions
Hardy Amies
Dimensions
Circumference: 83 cm bust, Circumference: 57 cm waist, Diameter: 145 cm skirt
Object history note
This dress was made for Mrs Jean Follett Holt in 1954. Mrs Follett Holt was the President of The Red Cross, Chelmsford, and wore the dress to The Red Cross Ball in London. She was painted wearing the dress in a portrait by Baron Killi di Pauli.
Historical context note
Textile rationing was lifted in Britain in 1949, following the extreme scarcity of fabrics in the war, and immediate post-war, years. Vilene was used as a less expensive alternative to layers of silk net to create fullness.
Descriptive line
Evening dress of crimson silk satin, lined with Vilene
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Labels and date
Evening dress
Hardy Amies (1909-2003)
London
Early 1950s
This behemoth of an evening dress is heavily boned and wired, and lined with stiff Vilene, a less expensive alternative to the multiple layers of silk net used by Parisian couturiers. Amies wrote, 'Today, any dress, whether day or evening, demands that it shall flatter the bust into well defined roundness. The depth of décolleté now permissible is also considerable.'
Silk satin, lined with Vilene
Given by Mrs Lister Bolton
V&A: T.86-2001 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Production Note
Late 1940s / early 1950s
Materials
Satin; Vilene
Techniques
Weaving; Machine sewing; Hand sewing
Categories
Clothing; Fashion; Evening wear
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
