In the early 1870s, as the crinoline was replaced by the bustle, corsets changed shape. In order to achieve the fashionable slender silhouette, they became much longer. Corsets also had to be rigid to conceal the layers of underwear, including the chemise and petticoat, which were worn beneath.
This corset is cut from separate pieces and reinforced with leather. Strips of covered whalebone form the scaffolding of the corset. Whalebone is strong yet flexible and therefore ideal for moulding the body of the corset and its wearer. It created a cage around the torso, enclosing the upper body and accentuating the bust and hips.
The steel busk defined the front of the garment. On this corset the spoon-shaped busk is wider at the bottom than the top. This was supposed to equalise pressure on the abdomen, making the corset more wearable. In reality, it could make it more restricting as the corset could be pulled in more at the waist.
Physical description
Red serge corset with the whalebone and spoon busk covered in beige leather and machine stitched. It fastens with a spoon busk to which is attached loops and studs of brassed metal. There is a white serge lace for adjustment at the centre back which runs through stamped brass metal eyelets. The top is trimmed with a wide border of cream machine made lace. It is lined with white sateen.
Place of Origin
England, Great Britain (made)
Date
1883 (made)
Artist/maker
unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Red sateen, beige leather and whalebone, with a steel spoon-shaped busk
Marks and inscriptions
'6/1'
Historical context note
The steel busk defined the front of the garment. On this corset the spoon-shaped busk is wider at the bottom than the top. This was supposed to equalise pressure on the abdomen, making the corset more wearable. In reality it made it even more restricting as the shape meant the corset could be pulled in much tighter at the waist
In the early 1870s the crinoline was replaced by the bustle and corsets changed shape. They became much longer in order to achieve the fashionable long and slender silhouette. Corsets had to be rigid to conceal the layers of underwear, including chemise and petticoat, which were were worn beneath.
This heavily boned corset is cut from separate pieces and reinforced with leather. Strips of covered whalebone form the scaffolding of the corset. Whalebone is strong whilst flexible and therefore ideal for moulding the body of the corset and its wearer. It created a cage around the torso, incarcerating the upper body and accentuating the bust and hips.
The steel busk defined the front of the garment. On this corset the spoon-shaped busk is wider at the bottom than the top. This was supposed to equalise pressure on the abdomen, making the corset more wearable. In reality it made it even more restricting as the spoon-shape meant the corset could be pulled in much tighter at the waist.
Steam moulding was a technique used to heat the corset linings which were then wrapped around a copper form and starched to shape them.
Descriptive line
Red serge corset, England, 1883
Exhibition History
Curvaceous - boned, busty, bell-shaped and bustled. A V&A/Central Saint Martins collaboration (24/04/2001-07/01/2002)
Labels and date
CORSET
Red sateen, yellow leather and whalebone with a steel spoon-shaped busk
British, 1883
In the early 1870s the crinoline was replaced by the bustle and corsets changed shape. They became much longer in order to achieve the fashionable long and slender silhouette. Corsets had to be rigid to conceal the layers of underwear, including chemise and petticoat, which were worn beneath.
This corset is cut from separate pieces and reinforced with leather. Strips of covered whalebone form the scaffolding of the corset. Whalebone is strong whilst flexible and therefore ideal for moulding the body of the corset and its wearer. It created a cage around the torso, incarcerating the upper body and accentuating the bust and hips.
The steel busk defined the front of the garment. On this corset the spoon-shaped busk is wider at the bottom than the top. This was supposed to equalise pressure on the abdomen, making the corset more wearable. In reality it made it even more restricting as the shape meant the corset could be pulled in much tighter at the waist
T.84+A-1980
Materials
Leather; Whalebone; Sateen
Techniques
Woven
Categories
Fashion; Women's clothes
Collection code
T&F
