Eglantine
Fashion Illustration
late 1944-early 1945 (made)
late 1944-early 1945 (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
This watercolour shows a mannequin from the Théâtre de la Mode show of early 1945. Her outfit was designed by Roger Worth for Worth Paris, and consists of a frock coat with a tightly cinched waist in black and white houndstooth tweed worn over a green day dress, with a high-crowned hat in matching green trimmed with a feather. The illustration is by Jean de Haramboure, also known as J.C. Haramboure, a prolific French fashion illustrator from the 1920s to the 1950s. The hat and jacket appear in two separate designs from the Worth design books for 1944. Although made in a patterned fabric the jacket is otherwise identical to the black jacket from a dress-and-jacket ensemble called "Eglantine" in the Worth design books for 1944 (see E.19063-1957). A dress closely similar to the "Eglantine" frock appears in Haramboure's drawing of a different Théâtre de la Mode mannequin (see E.22247-1957), and the hat matches one in another design (see E.19077-1957).
During the Second World War, from 1940 to 1944, France was occupied by enemy German forces. Paris was liberated in August 1944. Soon afterwards, the haute couture fashion industry in Paris, which had been heavily suppressed by the Nazis, put together the first Théâtre de la Mode. This was a travelling exhibition of wire mannequins with plaster heads which were dressed in fully accessorised outfits by Paris fashion designers, milliners, shoe-, bag- and glove-makers to perfect one-third scale. The dolls were placed within elaborate stage sets and toured around Europe and North America in order to demonstrate that the Paris fashion industry had survived Nazi occupation. These designs are for the first run of the show, which opened in Paris in March 1945, and toured London, Leeds, Barcelona, Stockholm, Copenhagen and Vienna. After this, the dolls were completely re-outfitted for 1946, and sent to the United States, where they were displayed in New York and San Francisco. In 1952, the Maryhill Museum in Washington D.C. acquired the mannequins, which had been left in San Francisco after the final show, with only the jewellery returned to Paris. The Théâtre de la Mode dolls can still be seen at the Maryhill Museum.
During the Second World War, from 1940 to 1944, France was occupied by enemy German forces. Paris was liberated in August 1944. Soon afterwards, the haute couture fashion industry in Paris, which had been heavily suppressed by the Nazis, put together the first Théâtre de la Mode. This was a travelling exhibition of wire mannequins with plaster heads which were dressed in fully accessorised outfits by Paris fashion designers, milliners, shoe-, bag- and glove-makers to perfect one-third scale. The dolls were placed within elaborate stage sets and toured around Europe and North America in order to demonstrate that the Paris fashion industry had survived Nazi occupation. These designs are for the first run of the show, which opened in Paris in March 1945, and toured London, Leeds, Barcelona, Stockholm, Copenhagen and Vienna. After this, the dolls were completely re-outfitted for 1946, and sent to the United States, where they were displayed in New York and San Francisco. In 1952, the Maryhill Museum in Washington D.C. acquired the mannequins, which had been left in San Francisco after the final show, with only the jewellery returned to Paris. The Théâtre de la Mode dolls can still be seen at the Maryhill Museum.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Titles |
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Materials and techniques | watercolour drawing |
Brief description | Jean de Haramboure. "Eglantine" jacket designed in 1944 by Roger Worth for Worth Paris, modelled by a Théâtre de la Mode mannequin for the March-April showing in Paris, 1945. Watercolour. |
Physical description | Watercolour drawing, a design for a dress to be worn by a mannequin with an openwork wire armature. |
Credit line | Given by the House of Worth |
Object history | A very similar hat is seen in the Worth design books associated with a similar but not identical ensemble. (see E.19077-1957) |
Summary | This watercolour shows a mannequin from the Théâtre de la Mode show of early 1945. Her outfit was designed by Roger Worth for Worth Paris, and consists of a frock coat with a tightly cinched waist in black and white houndstooth tweed worn over a green day dress, with a high-crowned hat in matching green trimmed with a feather. The illustration is by Jean de Haramboure, also known as J.C. Haramboure, a prolific French fashion illustrator from the 1920s to the 1950s. The hat and jacket appear in two separate designs from the Worth design books for 1944. Although made in a patterned fabric the jacket is otherwise identical to the black jacket from a dress-and-jacket ensemble called "Eglantine" in the Worth design books for 1944 (see E.19063-1957). A dress closely similar to the "Eglantine" frock appears in Haramboure's drawing of a different Théâtre de la Mode mannequin (see E.22247-1957), and the hat matches one in another design (see E.19077-1957). During the Second World War, from 1940 to 1944, France was occupied by enemy German forces. Paris was liberated in August 1944. Soon afterwards, the haute couture fashion industry in Paris, which had been heavily suppressed by the Nazis, put together the first Théâtre de la Mode. This was a travelling exhibition of wire mannequins with plaster heads which were dressed in fully accessorised outfits by Paris fashion designers, milliners, shoe-, bag- and glove-makers to perfect one-third scale. The dolls were placed within elaborate stage sets and toured around Europe and North America in order to demonstrate that the Paris fashion industry had survived Nazi occupation. These designs are for the first run of the show, which opened in Paris in March 1945, and toured London, Leeds, Barcelona, Stockholm, Copenhagen and Vienna. After this, the dolls were completely re-outfitted for 1946, and sent to the United States, where they were displayed in New York and San Francisco. In 1952, the Maryhill Museum in Washington D.C. acquired the mannequins, which had been left in San Francisco after the final show, with only the jewellery returned to Paris. The Théâtre de la Mode dolls can still be seen at the Maryhill Museum. |
Associated objects |
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Bibliographic reference | Victoria and Albert Museum Department of Prints and Drawings and Department of Paintings Accessions 1957-1958 London: HMSO, 1964 |
Collection | |
Accession number | E.22248-1957 |
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Record created | June 30, 2009 |
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