Jeanne Paquin, Winter 1897. 'Marquise'. Afternoon dress in grey trimmed with white and heavy black lace insertions, with high blue collar. See also E.95-1957 for a slightly alternative version of this dress.

'Marquise'. Afternoon dress in grey trimmed with white and heavy black lace insertions, with high blue collar. One of a group of 85 fashion designs bound in a volume of Paquin designs for Winter 1897. Most in pen and ink with touches of watercolour, some with names, details, and fabric swatches attached.

Given by the House of Worth

A design found further on in the same volume of designs is nearly identical, (see E.95-1957) although un-named. The only difference is in the arrangement of the black and white insertion on the skirt. Rather than going straight down and terminating, as in this sketch, E.95-1957 extends the insertions to curve round the back of the skirt and presumably meet. Comparing the two designs is an instructive example of how the couturier was prepared to modify and alter her designs, offering alternative reworkings and rearrangements to provide her clients with gowns that were unique, rather than preparing identical gowns.

- Daniel Milford-Cottam (February 2012)

E.26-1957