Jeanne Paquin, Winter 1897. Coat cut in similar style to an early 19th century pelisse with coachman's cape , lace trimming to collar and wrists.

Coat cut in similar style to an early 19th century pelisse with coachman's cape , lace trimming to collar and wrists. One of a group of 85 fashion designs bound in a volume of Paquin designs for Winter 1897. Most in pen and ink with touches of watercolour, some with names, details, and fabric swatches attached.

Given by the House of Worth

This coat is an interesting example of a short-lived period of historic revivalism that took place about 1895-97, when Regency fashions were briefly revived for a few designs. Cut with a shoulder cape and a high waisted bodice in the back, and relatively straight cut, it suggests a pelisse or coat from the early nineteenth century. Although the idea of Regency revival fashion, such as 'Empire' line dresses (which were still fitted to the figure below their high waistline) was taken up by couturiers including the House of Worth, the concept did not generally capture the public imagination. It would be another ten years before designers (including Poiret, Paquin and the House of Redfern) produced slim, high waisted dresses that successfully captured public imagination and began to be universally worn by fashionable women by the end of the first decade of the 20th century.

- Daniel Milford-Cottam, Feb 2012

E.74-1957