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Fashion design - Hiver 1897

Hiver 1897

  • Object:

    Fashion design

  • Place of origin:

    Paris (made)

  • Date:

    mid 1897 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Paquin, Jeanne, born 1869 - died 1936 (designer)
    Paquin Ltd (designed for)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    pen and ink drawing with some watercolour

  • Credit Line:

    Given by the House of Worth

  • Museum number:

    E.74-1957

  • Gallery location:

    Prints & Drawings Study Room, level E, case 96, shelf C, box 1

Physical description

Coat cut in similar style to an early 19th century pelisse with coachman's cape , lace trimming to collar and wrists. One of a group of 85 fashion designs bound in a volume of Paquin designs for Winter 1897. Most in pen and ink with touches of watercolour, some with names, details, and fabric swatches attached.

Place of Origin

Paris (made)

Date

mid 1897 (made)

Artist/maker

Paquin, Jeanne, born 1869 - died 1936 (designer)
Paquin Ltd (designed for)

Materials and Techniques

pen and ink drawing with some watercolour

Dimensions

Height: 31 cm drawing average, Width: 24 cm drawing

Object history note

This coat is an interesting example of a short-lived period of historic revivalism that took place about 1895-97, when Regency fashions were briefly revived for a few designs. Cut with a shoulder cape and a high waisted bodice in the back, and relatively straight cut, it suggests a pelisse or coat from the early nineteenth century. Although the idea of Regency revival fashion, such as 'Empire' line dresses (which were still fitted to the figure below their high waistline) was taken up by couturiers including the House of Worth, the concept did not generally capture the public imagination. It would be another ten years before designers (including Poiret, Paquin and the House of Redfern) produced slim, high waisted dresses that successfully captured public imagination and began to be universally worn by fashionable women by the end of the first decade of the 20th century.

- Daniel Milford-Cottam, Feb 2012

Descriptive line

Jeanne Paquin, Winter 1897. Coat cut in similar style to an early 19th century pelisse with coachman's cape , lace trimming to collar and wrists.

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Victoria and Albert Museum Department of Prints and Drawings and Department of Paintings Accessions 1957-1958 London: HMSO, 1964

Materials

Pen and ink and watercolour

Techniques

Drawing

Categories

Fashion; Designs; Women's clothes; Clothing; Drawings

Collection

Prints, Drawings & Paintings Collection

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