Kerchief thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Kerchief

1750-1795 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A kerchief is a square cloth with a narrow decorative border along two or more sides. It could be used on the head or shoulders or tied around the hips. From about the 1720s onwards Ottoman embroidery stopped copying woven designs and became a truly creative art form: new, naturalistic floral motifs were introduced and many of them were depicted in great detail. Some were allowed to sway and sweep across the fabric, some were stylised and many were enriched with metal thread. The colours were originally very bright but have often faded to pleasing pastel shades. Although the technique of this piece is Ottoman, the drawing is more reminiscent of European botanical drawings of the mid-18th century. This kerchief may have been embroidered in Istanbul, or in one of the former European provinces of the Otoman empire in which Ottoman embroidery and needlewomen were highly prized.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk, embroidered with silk in double darning, double running in a line and satin stitch, and with metal thread in double darning, musabak and satin stitch
Brief description
Silk embroidery on gauze; Turkish; early 19th century.
Physical description
Kerchief, transparent silk embroidered along two adjoining sides with silk in double darning, double running in a line and satin stitch, and with metal thread in double darning, musabak and satin stitch.
In the corner is a strong diagonal line formed by two stems, the upper one bearing a large pink carnation and two buds. Extremely fine stems swirl along the two sides and link many small flowers and sprays of flowers including: roses, columbine and daffoldils.
There is one selvedge but the three other sides have been cut and the outer narrow border is missing.
Dimensions
  • Top edge width: 885mm
  • Bottom edge width: 887mm
  • Proper right length: 924mm
  • Proper left length: 897mm
Style
Object history
Registered File number 1929/7806.
Production
Although the technique is Ottoman, the drawing is more reminiscent of European botanical drawings of the mid-18th century. This kerchief may have been embroidered in Istanbul, or in one of the former European provinces of the Otoman empire in which Ottoman embroidery and needlewomen were still highly prized.
Subjects depicted
Summary
A kerchief is a square cloth with a narrow decorative border along two or more sides. It could be used on the head or shoulders or tied around the hips. From about the 1720s onwards Ottoman embroidery stopped copying woven designs and became a truly creative art form: new, naturalistic floral motifs were introduced and many of them were depicted in great detail. Some were allowed to sway and sweep across the fabric, some were stylised and many were enriched with metal thread. The colours were originally very bright but have often faded to pleasing pastel shades. Although the technique of this piece is Ottoman, the drawing is more reminiscent of European botanical drawings of the mid-18th century. This kerchief may have been embroidered in Istanbul, or in one of the former European provinces of the Otoman empire in which Ottoman embroidery and needlewomen were highly prized.
Bibliographic reference
Illustrated in 'Ottoman Embroidery' by Marianne Ellis and Jennifer Wearden (V&A Publication, 2001); plates 83 and 84
Other numbers
  • T.57-1988
  • T.122-1929
Collection
Accession number
T.123-1929

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Record createdFebruary 2, 2001
Record URL
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